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Post by Deleted on Oct 16, 2013 9:41:11 GMT -7
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Post by Deleted on Oct 16, 2013 10:11:16 GMT -7
Great start.
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Post by CustomMuscle on Oct 16, 2013 13:22:22 GMT -7
HEY HEY Mitch looking great dude !!!
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Post by Grandpabeast on Oct 16, 2013 13:55:01 GMT -7
looking good buddy !!
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Post by Deleted on Oct 16, 2013 14:51:50 GMT -7
Thanks folks! Actually mixed yellow & blue to make green for the overhead front roll bar switches; geez, what a detail head LOL. Gotta run a couple wires from the back of that and round the roll bar down to where the MSD hides under the dash. That's where the line lock runs as well. I used yellow at the end of the curled wire to make it look like a button attached to the switch. Of course, I only come up with these ideas AFTER I take the pics lol! Payday came, so I did a little shopping and got a couple of really inexpensive ProTech parts at Teds - fuel line blocks, a couple of t-fittings, and a selection of rubber hoses. Now I can figure out roll bar padding size and fuel line as well. BNL had an MSD coil w/wire for this build and an Accell one w/yellow wire for the Shoebox Ford later this year. I also got a couple of MSD 7AL resin boxes with decals and a set of 4 resin drilled rotors with calipers. All that was a little over $25 with shipping, so I held off on the Morgan Automotive distributor with wires and plug boots ($4.95). I really want that set because it comes in so many color variations and the plug boots are a plus. The 428 in the Glidden kit has plug stubs in the heads that would fit those boots awesome. Need to beg the wife more, but it may take until next payday Sorry, crummy day today with no sunshine or the Nova would have been in some parking lot type shots. Gotta keep trying. Not only that, I want to shoot the base coats on the T-bird in white. After that, it needs a split color of red and if I mess it up, I'll have time to fix it LOL.
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Post by CustomMuscle on Oct 17, 2013 3:39:34 GMT -7
A little paint tip for two tone colors after you mask areas off spray a light cote of clear over masked area it will keep the paint from bleeding through the paint lines
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Post by Deleted on Oct 17, 2013 5:52:46 GMT -7
Hey brother man! Let me get this straight: I've primed the entire body, including pre-gluing the front and rear fascia ahead of time. My next plan is to do as you suggested; shoot the entire body in the white paint (including inside). Once all coats are applied and completely dry, I'll tape and prepare to shoot the upper 1/2 of the body in red. So exactly when/where should I shoot the clear prior to painting the red?
Also, instead of tape I've heard of some kind of goop people use to mask off areas to prevent overspray or mistakes. Does that work better than tape? For grins a while back I took an old Nova body, taped it half and half with tamiya 1/4" painters tape, then added more blue painters tape below there to the bottom of the body. Shot the top 1/2 and let it dry. When I pulled off the tape, most of the edging was pretty clean; just a couple of spots with a little wrinkle, nothing a decal strip couldn't cover.
The Glidden kit has striping decal in this manner, but I'd like do a good job and not be left touching up or depending on the decal. Know whut I mean, Vern?
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Post by Deleted on Oct 17, 2013 10:07:23 GMT -7
If I can get my part of homeschooling done today, I'll be shooting the mist coats and the some of the base coats (white) on the Glidden. In the meantime, I'm assembling the engine and painting it multiple coats since the car is molded in red. VERY little enamel covers in one coat over red! The fuel cell in the rear already has plastic line molded with fuel filters, so I decided not to attack there with my braided stainless steel. However, the plastic line acts as the attachment point to hold the cell and fittings to the chassis, so I drilled out one side with a Dremel and I'll slip the braided line throught the hole, attach a straight fitting to the plastic molded line and voila! It'll add some realism with the body off.
Anybody got suggestions as to what I should use to secure the braided line to the underside of the chassis? It'll end up winding it's way upwards through the engine compartment to the fuel line block mounted to the firewall. I'll take some pics of the underside of the chassis with the the fuel cell mounted and the line fitted in and just lying the length to the front frame rails.
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Post by Deleted on Oct 17, 2013 13:43:07 GMT -7
The Glidden build is looking sweet mitch! Can't wait to see more progress pics on that one!
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Post by CustomMuscle on Oct 18, 2013 13:00:57 GMT -7
Just light mist of clear it seals around the sides of the tape which then keeps paint from bleeding under the tape. Let it dry about 5-10 min then spray your color.
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Post by Deleted on Oct 18, 2013 17:41:34 GMT -7
Gotcha J. I knew you had a trick up your sleeve...
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Post by Deleted on Oct 19, 2013 14:01:07 GMT -7
Really CM? I just learned something new!
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Post by Deleted on Oct 20, 2013 19:02:56 GMT -7
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Post by Deleted on Oct 20, 2013 20:25:52 GMT -7
Looks hot mitch! I like the lights at the top and the wiring coming out. Are those to be functional LEDs? The roll cage looks sharp and so does the body!
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Post by gardnerpag44 on Oct 20, 2013 20:42:38 GMT -7
Looking good Mitch .
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Post by Deleted on Oct 21, 2013 6:01:14 GMT -7
Thanks guys! I wish that switchbox was big enough to hold LEDs; that would be a real flip but I'd need to building a 1/16 or bigger scale! It's just the camera takes really vivid pics and the modeller should use finer brushes! Those decals for the Data Pac unit, oil, water and mph in the dash are SLIXX and I love 'em. Can't wait until the resin MSD coil, fuel blocks and disk brake units come so I can get them prepped. I may have to use different front wheels from the ones for that year as the 5 spoke modern units allow you to see the rotors.
Although they are the two piece type of slick, I'm gonna try to glue them together and shave them up to get the rounded look. Sadly, progress will be slower this week as the wife and I need continued practice for our music for a gig this coming thursday; I hope to finish assembling the engine so I can start detailing it. Gotta be patient!
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Post by Deleted on Oct 21, 2013 9:54:49 GMT -7
Truer words never spoken: Patience.
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Post by CustomMuscle on Oct 21, 2013 12:06:09 GMT -7
!!!!! Mitch O your dash and upper gauge lights looks awesome bro great job !!!!
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Post by Deleted on Oct 21, 2013 15:44:33 GMT -7
I learned from the master CM
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Post by Skip-O-Matic on Oct 22, 2013 17:10:32 GMT -7
Looking really good Mitch. Keep it coming.
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Post by Deleted on Oct 23, 2013 17:39:01 GMT -7
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Post by CustomMuscle on Oct 23, 2013 22:15:34 GMT -7
Loooooooking goooood Mitch !!
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Post by Deleted on Oct 24, 2013 6:18:24 GMT -7
I agree
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Post by Deleted on Oct 24, 2013 17:04:48 GMT -7
Looking sweet!
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Post by Deleted on Oct 24, 2013 18:14:16 GMT -7
Thanks guys It's getting to the really hard parts now. I hooked up my 1st fuel line/fitting today and .035 is really small. It was just a simple connection to the fuel cell plastic line that came with the kit; and if you are familiar with these RB Motion 2 piece AN fittings, they're awful small! I used CA glue to help attach the braided line into the red AN fitting. I know there are recommended line sizes for these fittings, but I think a .025 braided line would be better suited for a .035 fitting! I know I didn't make a mistake, 'cause the fittings clearly say what braided line size to buy and I did. I guess I'll just buy bigger because I find it easier to use. What's nice is I have a couple pics from MCM where a detailed diagram was shown to demo how to hook up the lines. I have a firewall mounted resin fuel distribution block that looks like a lego of sorts; the main line .035 comes in and then the four .025 lines come off of that, two to each carb. While it all looks nice, I think I might try using some alum T-fittings next time so there's only one .025 aluminum line coming to the T-fitting, then go braided from there to the carbs. I'm ready to put the engine in this weekend, as the resin MSD 2-step and the MSD super coil will have been soaked, scrubbed and painted. The carbs are drilled and ready for fuel line connections; the distributor is ready as well. I'm disappointed the spark plug insulation is just wire and not hollow; I'll have to figure out if I can strip off the black insulator off the inner wire. It would work perfectly that way, but if I gotta buy something specific, I will. I'll just have to save a while for it as I've blown my detailing budget for the next month! More pics coming!!!
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Post by Deleted on Oct 26, 2013 13:47:11 GMT -7
A few more pics of the small progress on the fuel fittings. I've ordered more; uncoated as Sharpies are cheaper and just as effective; also ordered rubber and alum fuel line to save in the hassle of braided steel. Cheap and easy; just as good looking! So you wanna run .025 lines, huh? Look at this: Engine w/tiny .025 fittings for fuel lines, 2 per carb. Better view with firewall fitting block in foreground. s23.postimg.org/kwiol8b93/Engine_w_fittings_3.jpg{img]One more. Part of my hand compared to fuel distribution block with 4 .025 fuel lines glued in! Not many places to run lines underneath; now about below the driveshaft! Finally, all the battery cables attached. Not very pretty, I know. I'll have to strip the ends next time and try to make little fittlings...
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Post by Deleted on Oct 26, 2013 14:04:37 GMT -7
That looks great Mitch! I have all these fittings and wires in my eBay store. I can't tell from the last pic but did you use battery hardware for the battery cables?
Is that a rotary phone between the batteries?? Haha. Just playing. Awesome!
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Post by Deleted on Oct 26, 2013 14:36:50 GMT -7
No hardware Ice! The batteries had molded fittings on them so I CA glued with wires (cheesy). I can't understand why they put those fill moldings in, but with all the other molded lines (in red) and the blue fuel filters, I just picked up with braided steel on the underside. I got lots more to learn in terms of neatness, one build at a time!
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Post by Deleted on Oct 26, 2013 15:13:36 GMT -7
This all looks incredible mitch! I'm really impressed with the fuel line fittings into the distro block. Talk about steady hands!
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Post by Deleted on Oct 26, 2013 18:55:10 GMT -7
That's what's funny bro - my hands were NOT steady! None of the tweezers I have helped, and mostly everything stuck to my fingers!
I snuck out a couple of orders today for more AN fittings, except these are bare alum. I'll just paint them with some special paint for this kind of work. I also ordered a small quantity of alum and rubber lines that easily fit the smaller I.D. of the fittings, so I don't have to fight in order to get them inside! I also picked up 2 more T style fittings so I'll build my own distribution block out of styrene, drill and install one fitting for either a .035 or .045 coming from the fuel cell on top and one on each side to feed either the left or right pair of inlets on the carbs.
It won't be as snazzy as all the braided stuff, but a set of 4 fittings is $2.00 or more cheaper if it's not pre-colored! I need rubber and aluminum lines for the Hot Rod flopper anyway, so this will be a good test of my idea. They also had hollow black bendable spark plug boots to fit .018 wire, which is exactly what I need! I'm so hung up on detailing, I don't know if I could build a model out of the box as designed!!!
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