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Post by Deleted on Jan 13, 2014 16:26:24 GMT -7
That means what the flip guys. I'll try to take pics of this madness, but detail of instructions are really hard. Here's the quick story: Got the kit for Christmas. Took a break from the Ebay build to at least prime the Shoebox parts and maybe build the basic engine. Strangely ended up with 2 sets of various timing and oil pump belts, but no big deal. Everyone who's built this kit or the Carpenter clone '55 shovelnose knows the engines are almost 1 for 1. Paint from oil pan, heads, block, intake and carbs all dry and I start to follow step 1 of instructions (I don't care, I always follow the instructions LOL). No biggie there. Move to step 2 - instant Bermuda Triangle... The front engine mount magically grows a water pump and the pan grows an oil filter and what looks like a starter. No reference to part numbers, although the instructions give them. Search the parts trees, nuthin. Time shift #2: I had picked up a parts lot off Ebay for a "mountain motor" and "chassis" which coincidentally came from the Carpenter Clone (I have one sealed in my closet yet to build). I decide on a hunch to check the parts and lo and behold, the engine that started as the Shoebox in step one morphs to the Chevy in Step 2. Now I know the stories about the distributor in the back of the Ford and why isn't it a 429 like Gliddens, but has anyone else out there who's built the Shoebox gone through this? The frame pieces from the junkyard buy look exactly like the Shoebox too. This was gonna be my next big jump in improving building habits and appearance; first thing out I can't even build or trust the engine Please, comment before I go any further. I'm tempted to "presume" this will be the only anomaly, but that's not real building. I'm going straight to Revell next and complaining and will fax instructions of both models showing the problem. Thanks.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 13, 2014 19:04:04 GMT -7
Lol relax Mitch. Have some fun with it.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 13, 2014 20:00:59 GMT -7
Hey Ice: Love the avatar. I wrote an email to Revell listing the model numbers and UPS codes of both the Shoebox and the Streetburner '55. Funny, Revell has a lot of new and interesting builds (Like that '63 Vette) but the StreetBurner series has dropped off the site. Luckily I still have that NIB one in the closet. I just want them to make it right with a new sealed Showbox kit or a refund. That way I know if I try to build my 1st kit with the questionable engine, I won't be out the investment. Heck, I'd have put a blown engine in it if I had to build one from scratch! I'm gettin' a little tired of carb'd cars and blown pro mods are the bomb.
If I have to, I'll wait until taxes come back and get an RGE top of the line blown Ford pro mod motor, resin or not. They have those modern blower hats that sit as high as the roofline and include pulleys and a real belt!
I'll let you know what happens. Thanks for responding!!!
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Post by Deleted on Jan 15, 2014 14:46:44 GMT -7
Well, gotta love Revell. Those guys (Al) oughta be politicians. After a couple of emails, Al got back to me with what we all know already - it's easier to build a one size fits all chassis than to be accurate in engine/1:1/or instructions. He refused to recognize or address the fact that the instructions "simply warp speed #1" from the Shoebox in diagram #1 to the '55 Sportsman in #2.
He did send me a clear picture of the front of a finished Shoebox Ford sans bodywork in the front clearly indicating no water pump whatsoever. There were a pair of cog/belts shown; one horizontal from the crank to what he must think is the waterpump; however, it resembles a square unit more some kind of ignition unit or accessory. The other belt attaches from the camshaft to a hole in the front engine mount plate that does nothing.
He didn't address the magical appearance of the belt drive device (hmmm, what could that be?) on the drivers side front or the oil filter on the drivers side pan rear. So, much ado about nothing. I sure hope all the other Revell kits that are queued up for the future aren't "jack in the boxes" like this one, just full of surprises.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 18, 2014 10:19:26 GMT -7
I've assembled an engine for the Shoebox Ford, partly (mostly) out of engine parts from the junkyard '55 top sportsman engine I got off Ebay and it looks decent. I was going to use 4 braided fuel lines from the carbs and run them forward into a Pro Tech fuel distribution block, then backwards using .060 to the fuel cell. Since there are two fitting places on the cell, I planned to run an .045 line back to the block for a full return systemn. Halfway through the process, I realized I used .035 line on one side of the carbs and only had one .035 fitting left. I ended up using CM's suggestion of simply running an alum line to connect the two carbs on the right side. This required .045 fittings, which I had. It was miserable trying to make the pre-drilled holes slightly larger but I did and then bending the alum line wasn't any easier. Take a look and see what you think: I found a source for these really nice Pegasus "funny car" wheels and tires and think they'll have a prominent roll in some future pro builds and any funny car that isn't supposed to be of a specific replica. They once made matching rear combos but started showing up as "back-ordered" by the time I discovered them and now they're nowhere to be found. Made in China supposedly. Rock on brothers! \||/
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Post by gardnerpag44 on Jan 18, 2014 11:37:06 GMT -7
Looks good to me so far nice work !
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Post by Deleted on Jan 18, 2014 11:44:07 GMT -7
Thanks bro! I appreciate the props!
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Post by Deleted on Jan 28, 2014 18:17:21 GMT -7
After the weird initial turn where the instructions merged with those of the Revell '55 Pro Sportsman and my decision to build the '55 engine out of a junkyard bag and substitute it for the blasphemy in the instructions, the engine is done as well as the rear 4 link and the engine mounted in the chassis. Given my choice, I prolly would have built the engine as Revell "intended", even though common sense clearly showed the appearance of an oil filter, water pump, etc from one frame to the next. After examining B-N-L products, I could have clearly gotten a great looking engine/Lenco trans pro mod combination for around $15! Well, live and learn. I may build the '55 kit I expect to get for my b-day with a blown pro mod motor and keep the original engine parts around for anyone who needs them or maybe a swap. Here are a couple brief views of the Shoebox Ford progress... Thanks for looking!
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Post by CustomMuscle on Jan 28, 2014 22:02:50 GMT -7
Looks awesome Mitch VERY NICE !!!
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Post by gardnerpag44 on Jan 28, 2014 22:36:06 GMT -7
Great work very nice
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Post by Deleted on Jan 28, 2014 22:49:22 GMT -7
Yeah Mitch! Nice!
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Post by Deleted on Jan 29, 2014 1:27:58 GMT -7
looking good mitch
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Post by Deleted on Jan 29, 2014 14:25:45 GMT -7
I owe it all to my time here at Jerry's and all the builds I've been watching (especially that rascal CM). Everytime I think I figured out a comfort zone, I'm challenged to up the bar and it's great! Schwack and others on here have got me sold on picking up a paint booth and dehydrator at a minimum this year to make work and painting easier. This place rocks! Thanks everyone!
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Post by poet on Jan 30, 2014 17:07:20 GMT -7
Way to go. Nice engine detail.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 31, 2014 20:22:04 GMT -7
Thanks Poet. Welcome to the club!
Don't know what kind of builds you like, but follow the trail of mix & match parts I went through on this thread due to Revell's instructions mistakes. I tried to install the front engine support/frame rails today and found they would not fit around the headers as detailed, despite the instruction pics. I finally had to pry off the headers on both sides today and then pre-fit the support rails. They fit perfectly. Then I prefit one header set on the driver's side and it fit perfectly also. So, I've learned now I'm going to totally prefit all frame rail parts on the front end with Elmer's glue so if I need to try different assembly methods I can try them before risking CA or Testors model glue!
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Post by Deleted on Feb 3, 2014 18:40:32 GMT -7
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Post by jbailey on Feb 3, 2014 18:45:23 GMT -7
That's really starting to look like something now and its looking great.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 3, 2014 18:48:31 GMT -7
Thanks bro! It's a good start, and I love detailing but painting bodies is my flaw. I wish all I had to build was engines and frames!
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Post by gardnerpag44 on Feb 3, 2014 18:49:48 GMT -7
Looking real nice Mitch like the detail great smileyCA9464IN_zpsd9ee499f
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Post by jbailey on Feb 3, 2014 19:26:32 GMT -7
Thanks bro! It's a good start, and I love detailing but painting bodies is my flaw. I wish all I had to build was engines and frames! I have that problem as well lol. I usually try and paint the body first, so when I screw that up I have a lot of spare parts for other builds. I understand about it being to cold though, it hit a whopping 23°F here today. I have a bunch of little computer type fans that are about 4 inches square that I've thought about using to make my own spraybooth, but that would just add another project to my long list.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 4, 2014 15:09:02 GMT -7
Thanks Paul, I appreciate the kind words. I'm learning Revell likes to reuse stuff a lot and it doesn't always fit too well JB: I love this little thing on Ebay that runs around $70. It's a little larger than a toaster oven, maybe a small microwave with an open area and turntable and a house type filter fitted in the rear. The vacuum supposedly draws fumes and overspray through the filter and out a dryer type hose. You can also upgrade with an attachment that hangs over the painting area and also draws fumes upwards into a hose. I can just fit a flat end to the hose and slip it out the basement door. The hydrators have a small head source I believe to help cure body paint. Man, we got our taxes in ASAP, hoping we'd get something back. My hobbies are at the bottom of the list, but anything is helpful!
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Post by Deleted on Mar 6, 2014 16:56:17 GMT -7
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Post by CustomMuscle on Mar 6, 2014 22:18:02 GMT -7
Looking really good Mitch man your skills have improved 100% way to go bro !
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Post by Skip-O-Matic on Mar 7, 2014 17:12:52 GMT -7
Looking good Mitch. Looks like you have been busy on these.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 7, 2014 19:17:52 GMT -7
Thanks guys. The truth is Skip, CM give me tips & tricks all the time to improve!
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Post by Deleted on May 2, 2014 13:03:00 GMT -7
CM & anyone else who may have built the Shoebox: When paint time comes (it has for me), were you able to glue all the spoiler parts on the body before painting it? I'm asking because the side fins attach at the rear window and then extend back and over the rear taillights. Is it possible to glue all these parts on and paint the body before trying to slide the rear taillights and chrome trim pieces on?
It sure would be easier than painting the spoiler parts separately and then trying to attach the to the already painted body (for me anyway). Thanks all for the kind complements. CM, schwack and probably a lot others here with physical ailments will attest to the fact sometimes it's hard to keep a steady hand forehead-slap-smiley-emoticon
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Post by Deleted on May 3, 2014 10:45:20 GMT -7
Wow - it just dawned on me how long it takes a build from start to finish. Custom Muscle can do kits like he's on an assembly line. Other folks are so dedicated to perfection their builds are amazing. I guess I just aim high and keep repairing the damage until I'm done! The top side body of the Shoebox was taped yesterday in the sunshine and the inside got its 3 mist coats and 2 wet coats of Model Masters Red Burgundy Metallic. Man, I don't know where they get red for that color - it dried beautiful like a dark cherry; almost plumb!
Well I flipped a dime and decided to paint all the extra spoiler tinwork on the Shoebox in the paint booth using all the little alligator clips and flexible rods. Only problem is unlike shooting the mist coats of a body (inside or out), you don't have as many options when ensuring the surface areas on both sides of a smaller part get equal misting. I clipped the spoiler fins in the clamps and shot the first mist coat (including the actual hood) and then forgot to reposition the parts in the clamps before the 2nd mist coat. Granted, the paint was still sticky, but there were options. I shot the 2nd and 3rd coats before realizing the areas under the clamps would still show primer.
This was especially for the hood. On my T-bird prostock, since the underhood was flat black and the top was red, I shot its hood resting on one box and leaning on another. I should have done the same thing here. Anyway, I pulled out the hood and stuck it in Purple Power; the other parts dried overnight and today I rearranged the clamps and shot 2 mist coats over the areas still showing primer. Unbelievably, the mist coats covered perfectly. I'm going to let everything dry another 48 hours while I prep the hood. It only took a couple of hours last night to cleanup all the way to white styrene again, so it dried overnight and I've been priming/prepping it for another base coat mist session.
While I'm not particularly please with my ability to get through an entire paint job start to finish without problems, it's nice to know it's getting easier to fix them!
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Post by gardnerpag44 on May 3, 2014 18:33:58 GMT -7
Some times trail and error is the only way to figure out how to get it right , I know this from experience more than once but it will all work out ,just keep the faith smileyCA9464IN_zpsd9ee499f
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Post by Deleted on May 5, 2014 13:35:51 GMT -7
Paul: Good news! The only thing left on the Showbox is to re-shoot the hood top (bottom will be an easy flat black as usual) and shoot the top of the body. With improving weather, I've moved out to the garage for painting. The Mustang funny car and the Budweiser T-bird prostock are finally done with all painting and are now curing. I tried after waiting a full 7 days to apply Testors clear coat to the T-bird and it sputtered and then went on sporadically all over the driver's side.
I don't know what could have gone wrong, other than the clear maybe getting old or stale in the can? I had used some of it on my 2nd actual build, a 66 Nova. You got most of a brand new kit I had to purchase on that build just to get the 4th and final body to use! I got that awesome pink Hays T-bird body and fascias which are in the build queue along with about 6 other kits.
Anyway, I followed some instructions to wet sand out paint problems with 3600 when the clear had dried and shot another mist coat and 2 wet coats. It looks perfect now, but I'm stuck on what to do next. Jeff at Firebird Design did some great decals for the Mustang and the T-bird, but his instructions expect the area where the decals go to be cleared. I don't want to spray it again and ruin the paint. Do you know of any good, safe clear in a shaker can I could try?
I want these three builds done so badly and they are so close. The Shoebox has its own set of decals that are hard enough as it is to apply, especially around the hood area. Did you get any of the pics I emailed you? I haven't gotten a photo album setup yet online. I want to let you see the progress on the McEwen funny car which is monstrous now!
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Post by Deleted on Jun 3, 2014 7:14:01 GMT -7
Hey: Bad news (or good) depending on how you look at it. The Shoebox is dead, long live the King! After finally completing all the painting and beginning to install the glass, I trimmed up the windshield and it wouldn't quite fit. I used an xacto to gently scrape some of the paint away from where the A pillar meets the body and promptly cracked chips off the paint. I should have used sandpaper as the area was just inside the body. I could have sprayed a little paint out and brushed in the cracks, but no, I had to put it in the booth and try a couple of mist coats which I oversprayed and they ran.
I ponded it and got it down to the original finish coat with a little final sealant primer showing here and there. I gently wet sanded any rough spots with 3600 and was going to reshoot it outside when I got tired of the whole body style. I had a partial Soff Seal '57 Chevy I got off Ebay in addition to one schwack graciously got for me and realized pretty much all the Revell top sportsman kits were interchangeable. So, the '57 Chevy body will replace the '55 Ford perfectly!
Gotta wait for photos on that one too folks; sorry. It'll be a beauty though. I never thought I'd enjoy "over the lines" kit bashing, but what the hey!
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