Deleted
Registered: Nov 24, 2024 4:22:51 GMT -7
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Post by Deleted on Mar 4, 2022 13:53:11 GMT -7
Gents, I have been diligently working on an F-15C Ma. air guard kit from GWH. While the model is terrific, the decals are abhorrent. I wish I had known this beforehand but I carried on with them. Basically they are thick, very stiff and hardly react to any solvent, even Solvaset, and they seem to have splotchy adherence or glue . The result is that I had to continually work to overcome the silvering which inevitable occurred even after overcoating with Future and dullcoat. Consequently, I researched a possible solution and came across a YouTube video of a guy who experimented with different solvents on decals applied to clear plastic. Interestingly, the most successful, especially for older thick decals, was Mr. Color Leveling Thinner. I then ordered a 400 ml bottle and went to work on the decals which showed some silvering. I sliced, poked and prodded the applied decals before coating with the aforementioned, and magically, it cured most, if not all of the silvering problems. I then used it on the decals for the missiles which I hadn't applied yet. The stripes were impossible to apply normally, even with Solvaset, and wouldn't bend around the missiles. When using the Leveling thinner, however these decals softened quickly, were able to be coaxed into place, and eventyually "melted into the gloss and details. Not much is necessary, some decals cracked but were easily blended. The result was that these decals were ultimately successful with a "painted on" look after overcoating. I wish I had found this before applying the airframe decals! As an aside I have done some additional research on this thinner and found that it is a total solution to a thinner for all non- pure aqueous paints. It works beautifully in testors and tamiya lacquer, enamels, and acrylic, non water based acrylics like Tamiya. For the remainder pure water based paints like Vallejo, Ak, Akan, etc. my go to thinner hands down is Mission Models thinner. These are the only thinners the modeler needs to cover all paints! The only exception would be the pure car paint lacquers. Give them a try, you won't be disappointed!
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Post by mustang1989 on Mar 5, 2022 14:17:05 GMT -7
Gents, I have been diligently working on an F-15C Ma. air guard kit from GWH. While the model is terrific, the decals are abhorrent. I wish I had known this beforehand but I carried on with them. Basically they are thick, very stiff and hardly react to any solvent, even Solvaset, and they seem to have splotchy adherence or glue . The result is that I had to continually work to overcome the silvering which inevitable occurred even after overcoating with Future and dullcoat. Consequently, I researched a possible solution and came across a YouTube video of a guy who experimented with different solvents on decals applied to clear plastic. Interestingly, the most successful, especially for older thick decals, was Mr. Color Leveling Thinner. I then ordered a 400 ml bottle and went to work on the decals which showed some silvering. I sliced, poked and prodded the applied decals before coating with the aforementioned, and magically, it cured most, if not all of the silvering problems. I then used it on the decals for the missiles which I hadn't applied yet. The stripes were impossible to apply normally, even with Solvaset, and wouldn't bend around the missiles. When using the Leveling thinner, however these decals softened quickly, were able to be coaxed into place, and eventyually "melted into the gloss and details. Not much is necessary, some decals cracked but were easily blended. The result was that these decals were ultimately successful with a "painted on" look after overcoating. I wish I had found this before applying the airframe decals! As an aside I have done some additional research on this thinner and found that it is a total solution to a thinner for all non- pure aqueous paints. It works beautifully in testors and tamiya lacquer, enamels, and acrylic, non water based acrylics like Tamiya. For the remainder pure water based paints like Vallejo, Ak, Akan, etc. my go to thinner hands down is Mission Models thinner. These are the only thinners the modeler needs to cover all paints! The only exception would be the pure car paint lacquers. Give them a try, you won't be disappointed! Wow!!! Man thanks for sharing that tidbit of information Gil. I've definitely had my fair share of decals that I've had problems with and will definitely be giving this thinner a go. |
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Deleted
Registered: Nov 24, 2024 4:22:51 GMT -7
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Post by Deleted on Mar 6, 2022 10:33:00 GMT -7
It seems I have been on a roll with subpar decals. At least I know now there is another option to overcoming the obstacles. At the same time I found a superior paint thinner.  |
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pete
Super Member
Registered: Jun 29, 2021 13:48:10 GMT -7
Posts: 409
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Post by pete on May 21, 2022 14:16:32 GMT -7
Very interesting...My concern would be the thinner attacking the paint the decal is sitting on. You noticed no ill effects?? This didn't harm the paint? And what kind of paint did you use on the F-15 project...Inquiring minds want to know Gil.
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Deleted
Registered: Nov 24, 2024 4:22:51 GMT -7
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Post by Deleted on May 25, 2022 8:14:29 GMT -7
Hey Pete! I used this over model master enamel coated with Future floor polish. I had no ill effects with this combination AND I used it sparingly just coating the decal. For the difficult stiff decals I touched it to the decal that wasn't conforming to the round missiles until it started to melt it and then coaxed it around the missile's circumference.
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pete
Super Member
Registered: Jun 29, 2021 13:48:10 GMT -7
Posts: 409
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Post by pete on May 25, 2022 12:49:40 GMT -7
Cool! Good to know. Thanks for the info Gil!!
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Deleted
Registered: Nov 24, 2024 4:22:51 GMT -7
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Post by Deleted on May 26, 2022 11:09:57 GMT -7
One more thing...I forgot to mention that on some decals I had already flat coated with Testors Dullcoat but it still worked if you sliced or prodded the decal, however, it seemed to dissolve the dullcoat and created a sheen which just had to be re-coated with dullcoat.
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