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Post by Deleted on Aug 31, 2013 19:16:48 GMT -7
I've never used Alclad, but I got a set of Pro Star rims recently made of resin and I understand Alclad is the only way to chrome up resin. So, 1st, it doesn't come in a spray can from what I understand. 2nd, I don't think it comes in a bottle for painting with a brush. So that leaves the cost of Alclad and one of those $30 aerosol can spray kits, right? Or, maybe somebody can tell me where to get pre-chromed Pro Stars and I'll sell the others on Ebay LOL.
A primer (no pun) on Alclad use here would be cool.
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Post by CustomMuscle on Sept 1, 2013 23:37:59 GMT -7
MIT I GOT SOME AWESOME SPRAY CAN CHROME PAINT FORM ORIELLY'S I'LL POST A PIC OF THE CAN YOU JUST CAN'T CLEAR IT WITH ANYTHING BUY TESTORS CLEAR AND WAIT TWO DAYS FOR IT TO DRY BEFORE CLEARING OR BETTER USE PLEDGE CLEAR FLOOR POLISH. I'LL POST A PIC OF CAN ON MON
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Post by Deleted on Sept 2, 2013 7:14:15 GMT -7
Oh yeah! I love the newer style drag wheels, but none of 'em are chromed. BTW, I found a link to a guy who did mostly resin wheels, but problems with PayPal got him pi$$ed off and he closed his store. He had great wheel/tire sets for drags like Convo Pro (splined sides inside) and Magnum Drags (5 circles inside, like modern funny cars and pro stocks). He even created drag radial tires! I'd loved to find wheels like this again. I've heard bad things about Pegasus PGH1162 (rear funny car slicks with Magnum Drags, gold centers and beadlocks, come with yellow Goodyear decals); heard they're made in China? Anyway, Hobbyline has the fronts in stock, but the rears are indefinitely back ordered; they'd be hot for a pro mod. Here's the link: www.hobbylinc.com/htm/pgh/pgh1162.htm In any case, chrome paint that works with resin is the real deal! Thanks CM!
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Post by CustomMuscle on Sept 2, 2013 8:23:21 GMT -7
OK MIT HERE'S THE PAINT THEY TOLD ME GUYS ARE EVEN USING IT TOO RE CHROME VALVE COVERS AND SUCH. IT COMES IN SEVERAL DIFFERENT COLORS BUT CHROME IT WHAT I USE
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Post by Deleted on Sept 2, 2013 15:01:44 GMT -7
Thanks Muscle! If I hadn't spent so much time and had this image of what I want from the Nova, I'd get this right away and do my Pro Stars for it. Any thoughts on the Pegasus wheels? They are so close to bolt on with no prep it's a modelers dream. I hate to go Ebay 'cause I bet ppl are asking a mint for them. Body is prepped, primed and sanded. I just finished de-chroming the rear bumper and priming it 1st time. The front is taking longer, but heh. It's gonna look tight for a rookie. I can't wait 'til the 4" cowl hood arrives in the mail...
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Post by CustomMuscle on Sept 2, 2013 16:50:43 GMT -7
they're ok mostly low rider stuff which I don't care to much for others have better rod and race wheels
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Post by Deleted on Sept 2, 2013 18:42:10 GMT -7
Yah, I'm going to search the 'net for their version of the Magnum Drags. Someone on MCM showed me pics of some Convo Pros on what looks like a 70's Duster but said they came on a 'Revell '57 pro mod (I can only find a Mongoose f/c). I like either set, but the Pegasus are really hot.
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Post by CustomMuscle on Sept 3, 2013 18:43:11 GMT -7
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Post by Deleted on Sept 4, 2013 7:50:04 GMT -7
Wow, never heard of pewter before. The T/F and F/C engines look nice. I found a BBC fully loaded on Ted's site, completely wired, fuel lines detail out the wazoo for $200!!!
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Post by Deleted on Sept 4, 2013 15:17:02 GMT -7
One thing with spray chrome though is its SUPER soft like even duct tape can peel it off. Or at least for the valspar paint I use.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 4, 2013 19:21:33 GMT -7
I couldn't find the Brite Touch locally, so I got some chrome spray at the local parts store cheap in the meantime. All that's being chromed is the back of the clear plastic headlights. The car will be monochromed bumpers front & rear and I'll be taping up the grill carefully so I can paint it semi-gloss black later. After the priming that's been done and before I glue the bumpers to the body prior to painting, I have to carefully tape the headlight buckets so that after everything (including clear) dries 2-3 weeks I can pull out the tape with no risk. Only the primer should be left in the headlight buckets; if I paint it silver inside and I chrome the back of the clear headlight glass, it should look pretty real. I have to tape up the turn signals on the front too in the same fashion so I can apply as many coats of Amber Turn Signal as necessary.
I'm not sure if the rear tail lights need special care. They have chrome inserts that get glued to the body; all you have to do is paint the exterior of the inserts red on top and white on the bottom. I wish they'd used clear glass instead of chrome so I could paint it from the back side.
So, be honest. What would you do in my place? Can you visualize how I want this monochrome look to appear on my Nova?
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Post by Deleted on Sept 4, 2013 19:44:39 GMT -7
Man! Sounds like you like to complicate things. Lol The lights, headlights, turn signals, etc. you just need bare metal foil in the behind each part and you're all set for the headlight. No need to tape them up, spray chrome, and pray that they don't bleed. BMF is the answer. For the turn signals, same thing, or if you're going to do globs and globs of amber paint which is what I understood from your post, why even bother with do anything to them. The amber paint should cover up whatever paint is used as a base even if its black. Quick easy economical and efficient. Best thing about it is that it works.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 5, 2013 18:13:43 GMT -7
Hey Ice: Yeah, I've been thinking this one out. The turbo/outlaw combo hood is out because the turbos are only clocked in one direction, which ruins my perspective. I'm gonna paint the cowl same as the body and keep the stock hood/pro stock in flat black so I can switch them around for fun. So, BMF behind the plastic headlight before I glue it into the already painted headlight socket. Semi-gloss on the grill will cover the Purple-licious? Cool. Yeah, the amber turn signal metalflake is really hard to cover anything without multiple coats. Perhaps an orange-yellow color instead? Thanks for the info. I really do try to get good results; I'm just afraid of short coats ruining the overall effect.
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