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Post by Deleted on Feb 22, 2016 14:13:55 GMT -7
I read the step-by-step painting threads you referred me too. Very helpful! My only questions are on sanding. How do you sand without removing the paint from the edges and lettering and other details? What is the difference between wet and dry sandpaper, and how do I know which one I have?
Thanks mucho! high-five-smiley-emoticon
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Post by Deleted on Feb 22, 2016 15:34:01 GMT -7
Also, what kind of paint do you use?
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Post by Deleted on Feb 22, 2016 21:53:58 GMT -7
For anyone else who is interested in this stuff, this is a good video... linkOne thing I discovered is that of the dozen or so grades of sandpaper I have, only one is suitable for finish sanding. The rest are too course or too fine. Ha ha! A trip to the hobby store fixed that. I may have to try this out tonight.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 23, 2016 1:11:24 GMT -7
I read the step-by-step painting threads you referred me too. Very helpful! My only questions are on sanding. How do you sand without removing the paint from the edges and lettering and other details? What is the difference between wet and dry sandpaper, and how do I know which one I have? Thanks mucho! high-five-smiley-emoticon Your very welcome mate. I only use automotive acrylic paints, from the primer, colors, and clear coat. Duplicolor is a good way to start, but it is better used through an airbrush, as you have more control, as the cans do tend to go on a bit thick. I decant it into my airbrush jar as i need it, it stays fresh in the can then. I also have various other auto paints which i get made up at my local auto paint shop, like a good silver base, and i have a 4 ltr can ( about a gallon) of top grade clear . Sandpaper:, i use automotive wet and dry paper. BUT i always use it WET. i never touch paint with anything courser than 2000 grit, and if i am doing the final clear coat, i usually use some worn out 2000 grit. ( that's the finest i can get off the shelf here). PAINT, i get all my colors done, but i never color sand, then i clear coat it, usually about 3-4 good passes of clear, next day, i will lightly wet sand it with some 2000 grit, then more clear coat, 2-3 coats. Next day, i will see how it looks, but if there are any ridges from multiply coats of color, or orange peel, i will wet sand it again, but this time with the finest wet paper i have, if i could get it, i would use about 3-4000 grit, the smoother the better, then one last very wet clear coat, this takes time to be able to read the paint, it goes on so wet, it almost runs, but if it looks like doing so, i stick it under one of these big halogen lamps that you use to light up the back yard, but only briefly, you only want to set the paint, not melt the plastic, or burn your hand, that is a good way to tell how hot its getting, hold on to it.. Final finish : I will sometimes use a very worn piece of wet 2000 grit paper,then here is when i do my BMF, with a lightly scuffed surface it sticks well, then i polish it with AUTOGLYM RESIN POLISH. I used to use Maguires wet look,which was great, but i find the autoglym is awesome. If you want to know any more specifics mate, just sing out, and i hope this helps anyone else who read it too...
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Post by Deleted on Feb 23, 2016 12:03:10 GMT -7
Excellent stuff! Thanks so much. This will obviously take a good bit of practice and experimentation, but at least now I feel that I have a fairly good idea of what I should be doing.
Can't you find supplies on the internet? I just picked up the Revell Micro Mesh Polishing Kit at the local hobby shop, but I also saw it on Amazon.com and Hobbylinc.com. It has one sheet each of 3200, 3600, 4000, 6000, 8000 and 12000. Or, if it makes sense for me to buy something here and ship it to you myself, I'd be happy to do that. You've earned yourself a favor.
high-five-smiley-emoticon
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Post by Deleted on Feb 23, 2016 13:55:02 GMT -7
I'm a bit old school, I don't have pay pal any more, told them to jam it, and I don't buy stuff on line, don't really trust it... but that's OK, I have learnt to work with what I can get locally, thanks for the offer mate.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 23, 2016 14:01:59 GMT -7
OK, Dale. If you change your mind the offer stands. Unfortunately for the models of the world I got my new compressor and am ready to do some damage.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 23, 2016 14:04:23 GMT -7
LOOK OUT MODEL WORLD, you now have the equipment, AND the know how, practice away mate, you'll be banging out killer paint jobs in no time. ( not that there was anything wrong with you previous paint jobs either) ..
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Post by Deleted on Feb 25, 2016 18:56:17 GMT -7
I'm going to practice on this guy, which I had intended to strip down someday anyway. It's still not clear to me what you do about edges, ridges and details. Avoid them or just go over them very lightly?
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Post by Deleted on Feb 26, 2016 2:43:34 GMT -7
DON'T sand on the edges, keep the paper flat, avoid the emblems, if you put the sandpaper next to the emblem and wipe it AWAY from the emblem, this will smooth any major imperfections. The ridges are the same rule as edges, stay away! You will see. most of the orange peel or blemishes will be on the flat panel, so only sand those, and always only lightly, by the look of this, it doesn't need much work at all anyway mate.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 26, 2016 11:05:54 GMT -7
Thanks. That's very helpful. I managed a very nice finish on the parts of the Avanti that I practiced on. I was not able to get any decent pics, though. Today I will be brave and sand the Gremlin. smiley-scared002
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