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Post by stitchdup on Nov 15, 2014 9:13:34 GMT -7
I saw a thread somewhere about using glue and styrene swarf/waste sprue to make a filler. I was sure it was on here but after reading through help and tutorials I can't seem to find it. Maybe it was on a lesser forum, but my question is what type or brand of glue should I use? I have a glue I know to melt the styrene but I'm not sure it would melt it quick enough before it sets. I attempted to mix it and leave to melt but just ended up with a jar of solid plastic even though it was airtight. I have more small jars to use and plan to use an old paintbrush to apply as I don't think filler alone will work on my truck body and this would strengthen the joins I believe. Even if it's a brand not sold this side of the pond I can find the euro equivalent easily enough. Thanks for reading
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Post by CoyoteCrunch on Nov 15, 2014 9:17:03 GMT -7
If I remember right, it was a thread saying to use empty thinner jars and glue. I have not tried it yet, but I want to as well. Hate the Testors putty, it just never seems to stick well for me
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Post by stitchdup on Nov 15, 2014 9:48:15 GMT -7
I can't get testors stuff over here but I find the same with humbrol just popping out when its painted. I was planning to use this to fill the gaps then use body shop putty to do the final filler coat.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Nov 15, 2014 16:16:06 GMT -7
I think we did have that thread here somewhere. I can't search while I'm in my phone but when I get back to computer later this week I'll look for it. The other thing I've seen recommended is a good thick layer of glue and adding backing so to it. A few minutes to dry hard then repeat. East to sand and then you just fill it smooth with putty.
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Post by stitchdup on Nov 15, 2014 16:28:12 GMT -7
I was sure it was on here too as I commented on it about using it for my truck but it Doesn't show up in my list of posts now. I should have bookmarked it.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Nov 15, 2014 16:47:13 GMT -7
I found one of the best ways to fill a gap is with CA glue (super glue), and plastic sandings.( A bit of scrap plastic and a coarse bit of sandpaper will fill up a cap full pretty quickly.)
It is alot less potent on the nose too.
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Post by stitchdup on Nov 15, 2014 17:18:34 GMT -7
Thanks guys I'll try both on some scrap plastic and see which one works best for me. I'll put a progress up here when I find out. Thanks again.
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Post by Big D on Nov 15, 2014 22:28:16 GMT -7
DeeCee, How did you make the plastic sandings? I used to use my Dremel disc sander to make wood dust and mix it with 5 min epoxy to fill holes in wood knife handles. Something like that?
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Nov 15, 2014 22:54:21 GMT -7
DeeCee, How did you make the plastic sandings? I used to use my Dremel disc sander to make wood dust and mix it with 5 min epoxy to fill holes in wood knife handles. Something like that? Same principle mate, some grunty sand paper, ans sand some sprue into a dish of some sort, when you put some super glue in a gap, sprinkle the dust over it, do that a couple of times, it fills nicely, and you do not get sink back like most fillers do to you. |
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Post by jbailey on Nov 16, 2014 11:50:44 GMT -7
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Post by jbailey on Nov 16, 2014 11:59:53 GMT -7
Here's what it looks like after the styrene has melted.  IMG_20141116_125455_078 by ratrodfanbobcat, on Flickr That stuff works pretty well for filling small gaps and such, but it takes a couple days to dry. For normal body work/filling this is my go to.  IMG_20141116_125515_522 by ratrodfanbobcat, on Flickr The bondo works much better as a filler and doesnt shrink. You just have to be careful as the solvents will melt the styrene. |
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Post by stitchdup on Nov 16, 2014 11:59:56 GMT -7
mines turned out as a gray sludge but there is a lot of colours styrene in it. going to be putting it on later with a half inch brush. I used airfix poly cement for it. Finally a use for the free tubes i seem to have gathered. Thanks again folks
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Post by Deleted on Nov 16, 2014 18:17:18 GMT -7
I myself use a combination of things.....depending on what I'm trying to achieve!
IF your gonna fill lows and such I use regular ole Bondo! REAL auto putty. I buy it by the quart can with hardener. BUT I also use it for other craft type projects as well!
Granted, Bondo is difficult to mix in small amounts, so to fill cracks and or "seams" Don't bother.. I use baking soda and super glue....Add the super glue first into the crack or open seam, and then right after you put the super glue into the crack instantly put baking powder or backing soda in the WET glue, dries it INSTANTLY and can be filed or sand there after! NO WAITING for it to dry or harden... the powder removes all the wet glue and it is a good filler too, BUT you will have ti file it or sand it a bit as it gets thick, depending on the amount of glue applied first. BUT it sands and files readily easy too! Once shaped, seal with some sort of paint, and then lightly wet sand that sealer and then give a full coat over that and it ought to smooth right over, AND it feathers nicely as well!
I may try the loose plastic scrap and M.E.K and see what happens in an empty bottle!
EDIT:
I also use Squadron RED and GREEN putty, they're pretty good stuff! I had some White stuff by these guys but it was old when I got it so I didn't get to use it fast enough...
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Post by stitchdup on Nov 17, 2014 3:26:54 GMT -7
Thanks Hemi, I've got a lot more filling to do so I'll try your tip as well, The only baking product I've used for my models is grease proof paper/cake tin liners to stop things sticking when I'm lining bits that will be glued together but need lined up to glue parts but aren't ready to stick together, for example the front end of my truck.
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Post by stitchdup on Nov 19, 2014 2:58:05 GMT -7
Well the styrene glue mix is working really well but it takes a couple of days before its ready to sand. I haven't tried your tip yet Hemi but will be soon. I am also planning to pick up some modelling clay and trying to make a couple of the curves I need using the styrene mix. I'm hoping it will work for the lower edges of the rear fenders and to make front and rear light bezels. I plan to use a slightly runnier glue mix so I can use a syringe to apply the mix but I still have to figure out how to stop it all running to the bottom, maybe doing a lot of small bits at once will work but we'll see.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Nov 19, 2014 10:27:11 GMT -7
Stitch. if you EVER decide to use the Squadron stuff, be sure to ONLY use it as a "filler. NEVER a finish filler, its spongy type and needs sealed up well BEFORE painting....Its a good filler for deep cuts and such BUT to finish it off, use something other then it to do a just below primer type filler (IF that makes sense...)
Its a good filler for a medium to not be used to the surface, but to fill deep cavities, Bondo, and or CA with Baking Soda works pretty good for this, Even they too need "sealed" prior to painting, THEY don't have that spongy grain when added and then sanded it doesn't get "smooth" easily....
Where the other types I've mentioned, will smooth right out.....
Also a side note, super glue (CA) can be used for a sealer too, and with that it sands pretty good too! This will fill the cracks and allow you something to sand if you need that type "fill" to get a feathered smooth finish....BUT be sure to WET SAND the primer coat as well as the first few light color coats!
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Post by stitchdup on Nov 19, 2014 13:22:47 GMT -7
I can't get the squadron stuff this side of the pond. I can only get Humbrol locally but it sounds similar. I plan to visit my old boss and get some body shop stuff from him. I assume its the same stuff you call putty over your way. I plan to try the baking soda way at some point too, maybe not on this model but when I get back on the body swap chevy. With the size of some of the gaps I've got to fill on the truck glue and styrene seems like it is the strongest and it can be sanded with the dremel. It is messy though
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Post by stitchdup on Nov 20, 2014 1:07:40 GMT -7
Well modelling clay didn't work for a temporary mould but I think that it will be possible to make some parts. I need to find something that can be washed off when the glue has set but is solid enough for the glue to stick to. Might try plaster for the next attempt or something else that may surprise when I get this to work.(a little out of the box thinking on this as you'll see later)
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warmachine
Super Member
Registered: Jun 19, 2013 19:27:17 GMT -7
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Post by warmachine on Nov 22, 2014 1:33:50 GMT -7
hey guys put this stuff works pretty wish i had a pic but i dont its like bondo but you can mix it in smaller amounts used it a bit its evercoat euro soft thought i'd drop it in here never noticed it shrink sands flush to its pretty easy to work likely right next to the bondo in the auto body store or auto zone
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Post by Deleted on Nov 22, 2014 14:22:35 GMT -7
one other trick i use often is use ca(super) glue and baking soda. put the super glue where you need filled and carefully sprinkle baking soda into the glue. the more soda you use the bigger the lump you gotta sand down, but after just a few minutes you can sand,file,dremmel it as you would plastic. dont breath the dust if you dremmel(it tastes bad so i assume not good for you) and i suggest eye protection(i use it) because, better safe than sorry.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Nov 23, 2014 9:19:30 GMT -7
Franks right, the baking soda and super glue works WELL, BUT, if you do add to much baking soda, that "lump" he mentioned really is easy sanding smooth. I myself use a number files for suck, VERY seldom do I use sand paper, TILL wet sanding.....That is a bit different then! BUT the rough body work a file doesn't leave the scratches and if you use a "finish" file it leaves an almost smooth finish and that can be smoothed over with primer and wet sanding with really fine grit sand paper, ANYTHING 600 and over works wonders!
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