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Post by kpnuts on Oct 4, 2014 3:10:06 GMT -7
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Post by Deleted on Oct 4, 2014 12:04:03 GMT -7
Did you "primer" under it?
A good primer coat might be the whole trick you need here, primer it and then wet sand it a tad to smooth it, and then add your top coat, OR a really light "mist" coat that doesn't cover completely wet sand even lighter then the first time, and then give a good coat, that does cover, and allow to dry and see what it then looks like IF needed wet sand again, lightly just to take off the shine if any, and then the last coat a good smooth "wet" coat to cover the whole thing, and let it set a day to dry.......REMEMBER, its better to do multiple thin coats sanding or even scotchbrite in between coats then one heavy coat in the beginning, and a good primer goes a long ways to make the finish look GREAT!
I have one model I think I've blocked it back now 5 or 6 times to get the result I currently got, and it has a mist coat on it up to the last coat I applied......AND to add thats the "base" color, I have a few tricks yet to do to it! As its not even close to being done!
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Post by kpnuts on Oct 4, 2014 18:29:56 GMT -7
Hi John I use and have always used halfords grey primer then the enamel top coat never had a problem before I wonder if Polar Lights uses a different plastic and I tried scotchbrite this time but didn't work
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Post by Deleted on Oct 5, 2014 15:18:58 GMT -7
It almost looks like one of the paints attacked the plastic.....More to the point of where I see this is on the last picture, where that "arrow" louver grille is seen, it looks as tho the paint got to the plastic, BUT that too is difficult to tell from a picture....
What type "black" paint did you use over the Halfords grey primer? The 2 might have not been compatible as that also looks to be the issue too...OR when the black was sprayed the primer wasn't all the way "cure" not just dry.....
Possible old can of paint maybe? OR was the can of either shaken well to mix it well inside the can? To much "thinner" on top and not mixed well together inside can also cause such an issue! As the thinner being expelled onto the surface of the item being painted.....
Odd!
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Post by Deleted on Oct 5, 2014 15:28:31 GMT -7
This has happened to me before and it was when I sprayed it with too thick of coats. I always have a hard time with black. Also maybe this kit still had chemicals from the plant. I've seen some pretty greasy looking PL kits.
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Post by kpnuts on Oct 6, 2014 12:38:15 GMT -7
That is what I think it looks like the paint is attacking the plastic john I spray the enamel and the primer with my ab I decant the halfords into my ab cup so I don't think it's a thinners problem or paint not mixed properly.
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Post by Deleted on Oct 7, 2014 0:25:33 GMT -7
So the primer AND black is air brushed....HMMMM I bet the paint is attacking the plastic then....The only other issue I can say is maybe the mix of air brushed paint, as well as some chemical from the PL plant might be all "mixing" in a bad way here. Ice may have a GREAT point! Sadly, IF thats the issue, the only way to "stop" it is to stripe the whole lot, then clean off the stripper with good ol' kitchen sink dish detergent and then "LIGHTLY" primer it, AFTER its dry from washing of course and then hit it with another LIGHT coat of black, see what happens, and if all goes well, hit with a medium "wet" coat of black.....Leave set, and go from that point, what PSI you running your compressor on to spray this? might want to drop a couple PSI too.....to get a finer spray this time....
Ice is right black for whatever reason (I think its the pigment in black thats fine) and allows it to spray HEAVY at times or until the nozzle slows down flow from build up.....Holding to close, and moving the Air Brush to slow will allow the paint to build up quickly and you add all these factors together and bad things happen!
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Post by kpnuts on Oct 7, 2014 13:32:15 GMT -7
Well its in the plastic bag. The oven cleaner we will just have to see what happens next time
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Post by kpnuts on Oct 19, 2014 3:25:51 GMT -7
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Post by Deleted on Oct 19, 2014 3:38:51 GMT -7
Try using a GOOD quality automotive primer/sealer mate, you can get it in a can, light coats, then when it dries hard, light sand with 2000 wet/dry, DO NOT RUB THROUGH, or you will need to do it again. You should now be able to put pretty well anything on now. I have saved a lot worse than that by using a good undercoat.
Good luck with it.
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Post by Deleted on Oct 19, 2014 12:28:18 GMT -7
KP, So you say the paint has little "holes" in it that it looks as tho it mixed with the plastic? WELL thats a dead giveaway! The paint you used did in fact attack the plastic.....I would wet sand it with some to the tune of 800 or more grit sand paper, LIGHTLY just to smooth it, and then give it a GOOD primer cover and see. if the paint did NOT come off with a good paint remover for such, that means it did actually get into the plastic, and this "attack" isn't reversible that I know, you can only work with it and smooth the car out enough to paint, IF you have Future it would be a GREAT "Barrier" BEFORE ANY paint is added now....As it too can be buffed flat to except a good coat of any paint there after....
You also have to remember how much are you willing to get into on it as well.....As you at this point have a lot tied up in it already!
What did you use to try to remove the paint???
Polar Lights sound as tho they use a really crappy styrene mix in their kits, (I have NEVER built a Polar Lights kit so....) But this might be a determining factor as well as the one I was looking at came with "stick on stickers, and not true water slide decals.....
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Post by kpnuts on Oct 20, 2014 11:58:39 GMT -7
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Post by Deleted on Oct 20, 2014 13:41:03 GMT -7
The thing as it seems is, you needed to "seal" the plastic from the paint, meaning that the plastic Polar Lights used was a lesser strength plastic (AKA, solvents can get to it, and attack it) And once you get that seal made....ALLOW the paint to not only "dry" but "CURE" this will make a permanent seal and then ANY paint can be put on top of it...BUT do not do "heavy" coats of solvent based paint as that too can re-soften the good seal you made!
You may have it licked man! A trial and error on your part, I'm sorry, but a valuable lesson to the rest of us that may have gotten into building a Polar Lights kit! (A teaching tool so-to-speak)
Looks great so far!
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Post by gardnerpag44 on Oct 20, 2014 14:19:08 GMT -7
Glad to hear you got this figured out looking good ! As far as Polar Lights kits I have built some and had no problem like this with them maybe a one in a million bad kit it happens , DoDo happens !
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Post by kpnuts on Oct 21, 2014 9:31:57 GMT -7
Hi guys well checked tonight and that's another coat that seems to be eating into the plastic again (and it was a light coat) so I think I will spray it with acrylic leave that for a couple of days then try the enamel again, it's not anywhere near as bad as it was so don't want to risk another coat of enamel yet.
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Post by Deleted on Oct 21, 2014 10:10:09 GMT -7
Great to see you not giving up. This build will definitely bring pride.
What about using acrylic paint?? Might be the best solution at this point.
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Post by kpnuts on Oct 21, 2014 13:05:15 GMT -7
I don't get onwith acrylics and all my paints are enamel not going to change for one dodgy kit
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Post by Deleted on Oct 21, 2014 14:03:15 GMT -7
Ok....just a thought. I have both so I just assumed. My bad. Still hope to see this finished.
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Post by kpnuts on Nov 3, 2014 14:38:28 GMT -7
Hi all giving up on this paint job its reacted again, so I'm going to do something different with it. Batman is forgotten all his wonderful gizmos and gadgets have fallen into disrepair, including his trusty old batmobile. That's going to be the back story on this model now. So will start tomorrow with a renewed enthusiasm for this build
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Post by Deleted on Nov 4, 2014 2:19:13 GMT -7
KP crap happens ALWAYS when you hate for it too. Don't give up tho.....Maybe a good car for a Monster Truck to smash over top of it?
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Post by kpnuts on Nov 13, 2014 11:44:20 GMT -7
Hi all well this is going back in the box and being buried at the very bottom of my stash. as I was warned the decals are awful and do break up but they also dont stick. it must be a draught that moved the decal as I hadnt touched the model when I took these pics. so I have had it with this kit. I was going to do a dio of it on a dereclect street all rusty with weeds growing out of it but with no decals to show what it once was it would be a pointless dio, could be any car with no decals.
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Post by CoyoteCrunch on Nov 13, 2014 11:58:47 GMT -7
Holy crap man - sorry this is has been one of those nightmare builds for you bud.
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