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Post by jbailey on Jul 2, 2014 8:00:40 GMT -7
Hey guys, I haven't done decals for quite some and never really liked it lol. I'm getting ready to decal my Revell Kurtis Midget and there is a lot of louvers to decal over. So my question is, what do you guys use/suggest for getting the decals to conform around all the rivets, louvers, and panel lines?
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Post by CustomMuscle on Jul 2, 2014 15:06:08 GMT -7
Jb there is stuff called decal softener out there. It is called Micro-set. Tamiya makes some also. They help mainly on older decals. One trick I use to use really warm water it softens them enough to conform nicely. Cut them out individually and let them set in water at least 30sec or more. The real issue though is the freshness of the decals. The older ones will tend to crack on you and break apart. Also wet the surface area of the model with a paint brush before putting decal on then brush them gently to get air bubbles out. I then use cheap non fiberous tissue paper or paper towel to get excess moisture off and smooth them out. Q-tips work well also. hope that helps some
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Post by jbailey on Jul 2, 2014 17:17:08 GMT -7
Thanks CM. I used to use nice hot water and never had problems, but this is the first for me for going over so much stuff lol. I thought about getting some Solvaset, but I also just want to get them on and not wait another week. So I'll try it like I have done in the past and if it doesn't work I'll figure something else out. Thanks again!
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Post by Deleted on Jul 2, 2014 20:51:28 GMT -7
you can use micro sol or solvaset when there wet. just brush it on the decal. they may crinckle but leave it alone. when it dries it will lay flat. once i use the microsol i dont touch the decals because i have ruined them that way. just make sure you have it where you want it before using the microset. CMs right. I also use what Halfbreed mentions here. If there are little gaps like louver sections or panel lines, take a brand new hobby knife, make small slits and brush on a little more solva set. |
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Post by jbailey on Jul 2, 2014 20:55:16 GMT -7
Thanks fellas! I guess I should be patient and pick up some kind of setting solution to make sure they turn out half ways decent lol.
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Post by CoyoteCrunch on Jul 23, 2014 11:37:03 GMT -7
Never heard of this Solva Set stuff, I will have to look into it. Normally, I just use warm water, q-tips, new Exacto knife, and lot of grunting and skirmishing - Lol
Now I have found that applying decals to tires, it is best to spray them with a light coat of flat clear, this helps them adhere to the rubber. I have also read somewhere to give the body, (car), a coat of clear before putting decals on helps as well. |
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Post by Deleted on Aug 17, 2014 1:03:11 GMT -7
www.microscale.comMicro-Sol Micro-Set Dio-Sol I liked stuff made by Champion Decal Co. "Decal Set" stuff is the balls to work with! Don't work the same way as the decals I'm used too tho!
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Post by mike0157 on Aug 21, 2014 22:00:50 GMT -7
I've never used any of that set up stuff. I always just use warm water and paper towels. I just wet the surface and slide them off the sheet to where I want them and generally wipe the dry
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Post by Deleted on Aug 21, 2014 23:37:25 GMT -7
Mike,
A lot in this hobby hasn't, I have ta say tho, when you do use them, it makes the decal "part" of the painted surface! IF you EVER do use them, and want to remove the paint, the decal will stay on longer then the paint so the paint will come off before the decal will!
Makes the decal "stick" and almost conform to the surface better.....
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Post by Deleted on Aug 22, 2014 1:41:03 GMT -7
I find the best decal for me is one i leave in the box.  |
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Post by jbailey on Aug 22, 2014 4:04:46 GMT -7
I find the best decal for me is one i leave in the box. Ha me too! And that went for this kit too. I do have another one that I'd like to try again on, but the one I asked this question for got masked and a design painted instead lol. |
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Post by Deleted on Aug 22, 2014 5:07:17 GMT -7
I find the best decal for me is one i leave in the box. Ha me too! And that went for this kit too. I do have another one that I'd like to try again on, but the one I asked this question for got masked and a design painted instead lol. DECALS! That is the whole reason i started experimenting with paint jobs mate. ! |
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Post by Deleted on Aug 22, 2014 15:04:09 GMT -7
Question I'd be interested in ALL yer decals Dale!? I'll pay shippingfrom youto me! PM if ya got any "M opar" laying around!
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Post by Deleted on Aug 22, 2014 17:04:50 GMT -7
Question I'd be interested in ALL yer decals Dale!? I'll pay shippingfrom youto me! PM if ya got any "M opar" laying around! Sorry bud, the only MOPAR ones i have are still in the box, i have a couple of Mopar top fuel dragsters which i plan on doing a build with a trailer behind a Dodge duallie as a set, and will need all the Mopar stuff i can get mate. As for the others, my son uses them a bit, and on the odd occasion, i will put something on the side of a delivery or pick up as a work truck, they go on OK, for me, coz they are small, but anything bigger than a door, i have usually stuffed up, and it ended up in a bin.  |
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Post by Deleted on Aug 22, 2014 17:32:20 GMT -7
Dale,
Was worth a try at least if nothing else LOL I'm always seeming to need "air Cleaner" decals for mopar.....As it seems anyway, the "pie Tin" decals.....
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Post by Deleted on Aug 25, 2014 16:37:23 GMT -7
Jesse, i use micro-set on the surface where the decal will go and micro-sol over the decal along with a q-tip, warmer water and also a toothpick. sometime with larger decals i will put a puddle of water on the model and float the decal on, gently nudging it into place with a toothpick. then absorb the water with a q-tip, then take the other end of the q-tip and gently swedge out the water under the decal with a rolling motion. being careful during that last step to avoid movement of the decal.
Hemi, shoot me a pm about them pie-tin decals.
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