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Post by Deleted on Feb 26, 2014 18:05:44 GMT -7
I've got some current projects that I've stripped the chrome from the plastic, and would like to paint a base layer, then an Alclad II hotmetal blue. I noticed in reading the instructions on the side of the bottle that you should start by misting light coats over alclad metal finishes. Would alclad II polished aluminum qualify?
Essentially I'm setting up a test lab environment. I want to try the Alclad with my airbrush on either some junk parts or a partial styrene sheet.
The other paint I'm anxious to try is Pactra. I've heard nothing but great things about the quality of these paints. And here again, its asking for a foundation, different than a primer. On the side of the rattle can, it states you must first start with RC304 Backing Black. Only after that is applied with the color come out on the Galactic Purple Pactra I grabbed from the hobby shop.
SO my questions are this: Do I *really* need to follow these directions to a Tee? Or can I just use a tamiya paint jar of aluminum say before airbrushing on the hotmetal blue.
Same for the Pactra. Could I just get away with a semi gloss black or flat black rattle can? Then spray the purple over top?
Anyone with direct experience on this is greatly appreciated.
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Post by jbailey on Feb 26, 2014 18:52:00 GMT -7
While I can't help with the alclad paint line I think I can help with the pactra. The pactra paint is for lexan rc bodies, with those you paint them from the inside so the lexan looks like the clear coat when finished. If you used a darker base coat for the purple, black if you want it darker, you should be golden. Of course the pactra will have to be cleared over when done with the color coats as it dries flat and I'm fairly certain its a lacqeur paint. Hope this helps at least a little lol.
Edit: The black backer they suggest also helps keep the paint from flaking off the rc body.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 26, 2014 19:45:23 GMT -7
The alcads are fun to work with. Gives a whole new look to parts..
the chromes and aluminum alcads take a black basecoat before applied.
wash and clean the parts good. Sand all mold lines off for a great finish. I recommend a fine scuff and prime.
the smoother the better the finish..
first a gloss blak over the Primed part. I use duplicolor auto paint.
let dry. For the hot metals I recommend chrome or mirrored gold.
it will make the color stand out better.
for the rc paint. It is laquar so it will work but might not let the color stand out.
I say trial and era is the best teacher.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 26, 2014 20:09:51 GMT -7
What Junkman said. Trial a few pieces. Not too many though. Especially for alclad it sprays fast and isn't cheap. However if it says black, spray black. I'm just starting with Alclad paints as well. See the 50 Olds. They are very sensitive paints. Practice, practice, practice!
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Post by Deleted on Feb 26, 2014 21:21:49 GMT -7
Thanks guys for the great advice! I'll follow your steps junkman and give it a go! I'm going to start testing its use on just some spare parts I have in my junkyard. If I get it to look good, I may apply some of it to the E-Bay challenge truck.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 26, 2014 22:56:54 GMT -7
One other thing to keep in mind..
If doing chrome or any of the alcads..
You can spray to much on..
Here is a rule I use...
Chrome and mirrored golds.. Just dust it on. do not lay it on heavy. It will show in the chrome by a dark or goofy looking area .
dust it on but do the whole piece at once. let set a few seconds and dust again.. I usally do 2 dust coats.
Then lay a medium coat on moving back and forth part till coated. You will see the shine come out.
If you spray to much on it will start to look duller with every coat...
.. Like iceman said. practice and use very little.
Hot metals.. Mist on a few light coats and same thing. do not stop spraying in middle of part.
Go from end to end. It will leave a darker spot where you start and stop if in middle of part.
The more coats the darker it will get..
. The airbrush I use is a Paschee. I adjust the needle to just mist. Then spray away..
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Post by Deleted on Feb 27, 2014 7:19:24 GMT -7
One last thing that's I found works for me. Spray chrome at an angle for max shine.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 27, 2014 9:49:10 GMT -7
Great advice junkman and Ice! I had a pasche airbrush, but I just had a tough time with controlling the misting, I'm sure it was just me. Anyway, I ended up trading it in for an Iwata. Haven't broken it out yet but will for some of these builds. The iwata feels better to me in the grip and control.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 27, 2014 9:54:30 GMT -7
If your airbrush doesn't have a mist tip or setting, trying increasing the distance between it and the parts bing painted. Just avoided any drafts that will carry the paint away.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 27, 2014 14:17:58 GMT -7
Gotcha
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Post by Deleted on Feb 27, 2014 14:34:57 GMT -7
Oh wait! One more thing. Lol. Assuming you haven't seen my most recent disaster with Alclad paints. Once you start the painting process. And I mean after the first time you wash the model before any layer of paint is provided, don't touch it anymore. Oils from your skin will cause it to react crazy. If you do decide to touch it, wash it and let it dry every time.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 27, 2014 15:03:08 GMT -7
Yet another very important note to follow, thank you again Ice!
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Post by Deleted on Feb 27, 2014 15:23:54 GMT -7
Wait there's more.....just kidding that's it.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 27, 2014 17:03:55 GMT -7
just fyi...i've read that plastic spoons are good for practicing on
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Post by Deleted on Feb 27, 2014 20:05:42 GMT -7
Yep.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 28, 2014 9:27:07 GMT -7
Yep, that made sense and I'll pick up a box this weekend. I can't wait to play with my new toy!
Oh btw: I picked up four rattle cans of the pactra backing black while I could get my hands on them.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 28, 2014 9:49:34 GMT -7
After a while things can get expensive. I've used Walmart gloss black and results are the same. While we're talking about saving. Only. Walmart primer also works fine with me. It's what I use on most of my builds.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 28, 2014 21:18:29 GMT -7
That's interesting Ice. I've always used Tamiya fine white or grey. I prefer it because it lays down a good coat but not so much that paint layers will take away any finer body detail.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 28, 2014 21:39:42 GMT -7
Oh I'm with you on the Tamiya paint. It's excellent! I have a few of those cans that I save for "special occassions" I have to find ways to save some money though. Price of one can of Tamiya will get you four cans twice the size of the Walmart brand.  |
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Post by Deleted on Feb 28, 2014 21:45:15 GMT -7
i'm with Iceman on the walmart primer |
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Post by Deleted on Feb 28, 2014 23:45:12 GMT -7
Point well taken, I'll have to pick some up. Any certain details I need? rattle can walmart spray primer? That it?
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Post by Deleted on Mar 1, 2014 1:00:01 GMT -7
the actual "brand name" on the can is color place and it's mostly blue
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Post by jbailey on Mar 1, 2014 5:29:08 GMT -7
I use the ColorPlace primer on everything. I used it on my 1:1 motorcycle when I painted it a couple years ago. It works great, sprays smooth and sands nicely. Plus it isn't picky about what you spray over the top of it.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 3, 2014 1:39:08 GMT -7
Found A new primer at our harbor frieght.
It is a filler primer gray called Iron Armor.
lays on nice, sands nice, and fills scratches in great.
Comes in black to.
On sale for 3,69..
Schwack, did an experiment for ya.
Flat black prime, aluminum RC paint, Alcad Hot metal Violet over that.
Worked great., No problems...
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Post by Deleted on Mar 3, 2014 20:11:22 GMT -7
My fault junkman, I thought I was supposed to use gloss black prime. Aluminum RC paint? What brand or type is that? I did pick up a bottle of the Alclad gloss black base.
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