Deleted
Registered: Dec 4, 2024 19:20:38 GMT -7
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Jan 12, 2014 22:20:19 GMT -7
Greetings Everyone
I'm curious if I could reach out to the forums and ask when do you need to sand in modeling? I'm seeing the sandpaper by testors and debating i should get it. Also, been wondering what primers I should be using as well. My wife and father law have bought me Rustolum spray paint to use on my models. So just curious of what I should be using and what not.Thirdly, Been hearing about polishing your models so they shine? is this a spray you put on them or do I need to get some pad or something? I have seen tons of models that have like a mirrior like shine to them they look amazing ( would love to have my models have that to)/
Any help would be nice, as you can see I'm lost in this hobby and wanting to make amazing models to show off like everyone else. I do have like 7 under my belt but they are nothing compared to what I see online.
Thanks for all your help in advance. I hope people are nicer here then on Scale auto forums
|
|
Deleted
Registered: Dec 4, 2024 19:20:38 GMT -7
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Jan 13, 2014 8:28:11 GMT -7
Hey Douggie, glad to see youre asking for some advice. Don't worry, this place is not like Scale Auto. Everyone is happy to help here. Sanding is a topic that gets asked a lot by new and more experienced members alike. Although I am still learning a few things about this subject, I will share what has worked for me personally. I've tried different techniques and products. It might not be the right way or the wrong way, it's just what I have found to work for me. Now to your questions:
When to sand a model - a few times throughout the building process. After removing flash and mold lines, this is usually the first time I will sand the model (150 grit). At this point I do not attempt to get the body as smooth as possible as it needs to be a litle rough for the primer to hold on to. After adding primer I sand again this time using a lot finer grit I believe its 300 grit. This leaves a pretty smooth surface. For these two steps I use 3M sanding sponges from Lowe's or Home Depot. Depending on how it looks after paint and/or clear I may sand again using sanding cloths which include grit from 3600 up to 12000. I dont always use these though. This is a polishing kit that is supposed to help you reach
What primer to use - I'm going to be honest with you. I use the $.99 walmart primer. I have tried many other more expensive primers and to me its a waste of money. It hasn't failed me yet. It's even worked on resin so I'm sticking to it.
How to get your models to shine - I havent been able to get mine to look as shiny as a real car as some of the models I've seen elsewhere. Sometimes, I surprise myself with how its laid down but it has a lot to do for me on what brand of paint I use. I will say that allowing enough time for the paint to gas out is a great thing to do. The only other advice I have here is how you spray the clear coat. I use Rustoleum Crystal Clear Enamel on all my bodies. I've learned that it sprays on thick so you cant spray from too close or it will run pretty quick. Also I've noticed better results if I spray at an angle instead of directly on to the body. And I do it in the sun so I can see the coverage every time I spray. Ther is one brand of spray paint that sprays super clear and glossy. Many folks like it hear but it is a bit expensive. Testor's One Coat Lacquers These go on super smooth and with a great shine. The Wet Look Clear Coat they offer makes the paint stand out even more.
I recommend you try a few different techinques. You will see a lot of different ways that people do things here, on you tube and on other forums. Find what works for you.
I hope all this blabbering helps you out at least a little bit.
|
|
Deleted
Registered: Dec 4, 2024 19:20:38 GMT -7
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Jan 13, 2014 9:18:53 GMT -7
Thanks very much Iceman. So far the experience on here has been a lot better then what I have gotten scale auto's site. I did post a model that I did build, if you have time would love to hear your thoughts on it and advice for the next ones.
Your advice did make sense, I have quite a few different models on the bench yet to get start, but was scared off once I heard about sanding and all this stuff.
|
|
Deleted
Registered: Dec 4, 2024 19:20:38 GMT -7
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Jan 13, 2014 13:09:39 GMT -7
when it comes to sanding I was reading that there is like 20000 grit sandpaper and what not. where do you find that kinda of stuff? The hobby stores in my area not that well stocked with model items.
|
|
Deleted
Registered: Dec 4, 2024 19:20:38 GMT -7
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Jan 13, 2014 13:58:02 GMT -7
That extremely fine grit is actually a polishing kit. Check the Micro Mark website. I believe they carry a kit
|
|
islandrods
Full Member
Registered: Nov 16, 2013 12:31:56 GMT -7
Posts: 210
|
Post by islandrods on Jan 13, 2014 14:25:18 GMT -7
Hi Douggie, when it comes to polishing the final coat of paint I do not use sanding I use a fine compound ( here in the UK it's called T cut) then I use a good automotive polish, I also do as Iceman said and that's let the final painting gas out for about 2 weeks before polishing.
I have not yet had any problems doing it this way.
|
|
|
|
Post by Grandpabeast on Jan 13, 2014 14:40:03 GMT -7
I believe that they sell a sanding pack that is ( i think ) 5 small 3inch x 4inch plastic sheets, black, brown, orange, red and a tan. Each having a different grit ad they range from black - 220 to tan which is about 10,000.
To go with what Iceman said. If you are going to do body work and start sanding a kit be prepared to spend a lot of time sanding and adding sanding and adding. The more time you spend getting it just right the better your paint will turn out. Also I wet sand using the red and tan. I will even wet sand the first coat or two of the paint.
the shine can come from a can like clear coats or by wet sanding and polishing. There are some guys that even dip their bodies in Future floor polish and let that dry. Everyone is different and I for one like to experiment and try different stuff . Have you ever seen , were guys will dip a body in a bucket of water that has paint poured on the top? As you dip the paint lays on the body and gives it a real psychedelic look.
Well just my thoughts. I hope we see some of your work soon. check out the up coming contests and jump in with both feet !
|
|
Deleted
Registered: Dec 4, 2024 19:20:38 GMT -7
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Jan 13, 2014 14:45:53 GMT -7
thanks Grandpabeat!! I actually just uploaded a photo of one my builds to be honest with you. I'm dieing to hear what you guys think and any advice of what I should do to improve.  |
|
Deleted
Registered: Dec 4, 2024 19:20:38 GMT -7
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Jan 13, 2014 17:30:58 GMT -7
All great advice. You Tube has some nice videos and some of the past "Dr. Cranky" videos and ones by others have gone into spraying with rattle cans, sanding and polishing. I remember one that even went into showing how to finely polish the stock kit body without painting.
Finally, I would also check on places that sell variety packs of regular to extra fine grits of sandpaper for models. Good luck and just remember, the hobby is about fun!
|
|
Deleted
Registered: Dec 4, 2024 19:20:38 GMT -7
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Feb 8, 2014 8:26:51 GMT -7
late to the party, as usual, but here is what I do. [this applies to all body parts]
if using enamel products, wet sand with 600 grit, then wash with soap and water, towel off, and let air dry for awhile. prime parts, let sit for 1/2 hour, then in dehydrator at 105 degrees for about 8-10 hours [overnight], then wet sand with 2000, dry, re-prime if needed, then dehydrator again for 8-10 hours. wet sand again, then actual paint, and dehydrator again. after the dehydrator trips are done, I use a micro polish wet sanding kit that ranges from 3000-12000, depending on how the paint looks, I may just use 8000 and 12000 to flatten it out, then either clear it, or future it.
if using lacquer, wet sand 2000, wash/dry, air dry, then prime. lacquer gasses out way quicker, so I usually let that sit for 30 minutes or so, then I can re-prime if needed. then I will let it sit for 24 hours, re-sand with 2000 if needed, and spray color. 24 hours after color coat is done, I will do the micro wet sand [grit varies on paint], after that, I use automotive compound to polish all the fine scratches, then wax.
once you get the spray technique down, you'll need less final paint 'repair', as you wont have as many runs/sags/orange peel etc., and finding a dust free area helps [or as little dust as possible].
and remember, if all else fails, you can put it in a 'tub' of degreaser and strip the paint and start all over again.
|
|
