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Post by CustomMuscle on Dec 8, 2013 1:39:33 GMT -7
ummm now that I've said that I'm not sure I have one.....let's see hmmmm....I would say sharpie pens to get anonized look but not not real big secrete. I do use what I call paint pens which use actual acrylic paint name brands are Pilot,DecoColor,Sharpie now makes them(especially good for gold and silver detail work,. The biggest secretes are best places to get cool aftermarket stuff so if you're ever looking for something let me know..I'll tell. My newest thing is to use Dupli-color ground coat as a primer. This stuff is awesome it's silver dries very hard and fast and never fish eyes or bubbles even if surface has some oil or contaminates. They actually make the paint to resist these issues, it's awesome. Oh and most recent is ALCLAD IN A SPRAY CAN. That is just wonderful because I don't ever air-brush. Also to keep everything really clean CLEAR COTE EVERYTHING it really allows your build to come out much cleaner looking unless you don't want that. I know there's other stuff don't hesitate to ask. smileyCA9464IN_zpsd9ee499f
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Post by Grandpabeast on Dec 8, 2013 8:01:53 GMT -7
That is very good info CM ! I have a couple when it comes to stripping paint I use LA's Awesome Cleaner, get it at the dollar store and it is fast and good. The second would be cloths pins, the spring clamp type type they work great for holding or clamping things.Oh......ohoh one more thing , I dont know if this is a tip but.....slow down, take your time. Dont be in a hurry. You can only go as fast as your glue will dry !
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Post by CustomMuscle on Dec 8, 2013 14:02:37 GMT -7
Hey beast I got some of that stripper do you use it full strength ?
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Post by Grandpabeast on Dec 8, 2013 16:30:52 GMT -7
yes I do , I have a tupperware bread box which is about the size of half the length of a loaf of bread. It almost fits the body perfect and it takes two of those bottles to fill it and then I just use it like a dunk tank. I strip about five to seven before I pour it back into the bottles and get new.
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Post by CustomMuscle on Dec 9, 2013 15:35:45 GMT -7
Come on guys cough up those secretes smileyCASHS601_zps1c54a9c5
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Post by Deleted on Dec 10, 2013 19:36:53 GMT -7
Ok. You pulled my leg..lol
a little doing I found out this by accident. The braided hose look can be had cheaply. Rca cable ground insulation. Stip one down and you will see the braid inside the insulation. Can make for different sizes from rad to heater hose. A little super glue on the wire or plastic and presto.
you want to rust up a car. No problem. Place steel wool in a container. Little water just enough to make bottom of cup wet. Place steel wool in and let sit. I use an old spice container. Water will soak into wool and rust it up. Make sure it is not a new piece unless you rinse out soap. Once water dries up look at the wool. You will see it rusting up. Twist it between fingers and the loose dust will fall off. Filter out the dust to get out larger wire. Place on body using dull coat around holes or over body for rusted look. When dry and stuck to body. Brush over with dull coat to lock on..
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Post by CustomMuscle on Dec 11, 2013 20:42:28 GMT -7
Nice tip JM thanks man !
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Post by Deleted on Dec 12, 2013 11:41:49 GMT -7
for dark primer,i use a flat black, get it at lowes, it's labeled 'project source'. .99 cents for a big can. covers great and almost never runs.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 12, 2013 14:08:42 GMT -7
for dark primer,i use a flat black, get it at lowes, it's labeled 'project source'. .99 cents for a big can. covers great and almost never runs. Nice! I use the Walmart brand for flat black and primer. Prime to many bodies to spend big bucks on primer. Unless I do a lot of body work then I get automotive filler/primer. |
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Post by Deleted on Dec 12, 2013 22:11:57 GMT -7
Krylon cans!!!!! Flat black is amazing so is the tsatin black. Its real cheap.
Oh and dont bother with resin cowl hoods waste of money and never fit. Just scrach build from styrne
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Post by Deleted on Dec 12, 2013 23:53:02 GMT -7
I agree. Krylon is good for a final finish but for a base flat black, $.99 cans from Walmart is the economical way to go.
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Post by CustomMuscle on Dec 13, 2013 13:18:57 GMT -7
Shift I just got some resin cowl hoods from Competition Resins and they're awesome also BNL resins quality is great. They don't use that cheapo flaky resin it's almost like styrne. I got some dominator carbs from BNL and they're better than the kit ones.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 13, 2013 16:04:49 GMT -7
Thank muscle might have to check them out had too many bad experience s with ebay
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Post by Deleted on Dec 13, 2013 18:07:40 GMT -7
The plastic packaging they use for mp3 headphones and other electronic items is a good substitute for windows when you get glue or paint on the windows that come with the kit or when you don't have any of that flexible plastic sheet that comes with certain models. Also, this isn't really a secret but if you can swing it (this stuff is expensive here in BC, about $7 a can) try some of testors one coat lacquer, some very nice paint, no primer or clearcoat needed.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 13, 2013 23:09:00 GMT -7
The one coat is amazing but I do find lighter colors look better with a base coate I use the diamand dust allot for a base but all in all amazing product and great for beginners
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Post by Deleted on Feb 25, 2014 11:24:55 GMT -7
Not so fast! for those of us without a lot of styrene skills, resin is a blessing. I got a nice '66 Nova Outlaw cowl and it was almost A-1 perfect on the top. The bottom was not perfect, albeit, when it came to metal support detail, but who props up a resin hood on a pro street? Not me!
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Post by Deleted on Feb 25, 2014 11:41:59 GMT -7
I just found this while searching for competitive pricing on fuel line fittings on Ebay. If you're into braided steel lines for carbs like a lot of us or just want to try and get into it, trying to hook up 4 lines into dual feed dual carbs is a bit overwhelming. But I found this 1:1 setup which can be applied to our 1/25 scale models.  As seen from the above picture, get some Evergreen Styrene rod approx. the same size as the braided line you're going to use. You'll need two pieces of this braided line and two fittings (say using .045 line and .047 inside diameter fittings for extra room). Cut two pieces of rod per side to glue from the side of the carb to the longer piece of rod. Once dry, paint the plastic rod pieces silver or alum and right up next to the carb, use Tamiya clear red and blue paint for making realistic looking bands (fittings) and use a couple of real alum red/blue fittings with CA/accellerator to attach to the braided steel lines. Once dried, connect them the same way to the long end of the painted plastic rod at the front of the engine. You can then run the braided line backwards on each side of the engine and simply tuck them down between the engine and firewall. I'll try to take some pics and add them the next time I try this technique myself. |
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Post by Deleted on Feb 26, 2014 10:54:00 GMT -7
Wow, Kreskin musta wrote those instructions... If you want a sketch of the idea, PM me and I'll fax it to ya...
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Post by Deleted on Feb 28, 2014 9:25:43 GMT -7
Hey CM: I'd like a sketch of this idea. Can you fax to me too? 614-299-8566. Its my dedicated fax line.
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Post by Doc O on Apr 24, 2014 13:41:26 GMT -7
Well no real tips,i use about 6 bb's in my little bottle paints ,so when i shake them it helps mix the paint.Ya those cables Junkman was talking about,thats what i used on the fuel lines on my 40 Willys if you want to see what they look like.ummm I have 12 or so aligator clips(diff. sizes) that i soldered to diff. lengths of coat hangers. then i drilled a bunch of holes in a board that the coat hangers would fit in. Great for painting.I like to take my parts off the sprue so i can clean the flash lines(hate them)b4 painting.I use old cd's or dvd's for putting glue to use with tooth pick,also for mixing paint.Usually wipes right off after so dont thro those away!!Thats all that comes to mind right now. ifin i think of more ill lets ye know!!
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Post by Deleted on Apr 26, 2014 8:36:18 GMT -7
Hi Guys I have a little tip, maybe not a secret tip but anyway. Concerning the carpeting on the interior of cars. Its difficult to find ones that look scale, both in colour and texture, so heres a little tip. You know the material that comes with your laptop, that covers the keyboard.  Well take a closer look at it.  Its actually perfect for custom interiors. Heres how I do it. I use a broad tape on the unterside of the interior to get the correct shape.  Peel off the tape and stick it onto the material  Cut out, and viola! Carpets.  The sheets are big enough to do at least 3 dozen cars, so it will last quite a while and it can be painted too Hope this is of some use to you guys Steve |
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Post by Deleted on Apr 26, 2014 8:54:16 GMT -7
Hi Guys... Me again. Another tip. A simpler method for producing 'anodised'parts, like Head covers. I know lots of people use Sharpies, but you can get the same effect using spray cans. I basically only use Tamiya cans (all thats available here). Get yourself a Metallic Silver, (I use TS 83),spray silver first, leave to dry fully, then use Tamiya Clear colours , they have red, orange, yellow, blue, green and smoke. Spray on a couple of light coats, and clear gloss it and hey presto...  Another nice thing about these colours is that they can be used for colours like Candy Apple Red, with a little time and patience...  Not the best photo, but you can see the lustre in the paint, and this is before any varnish or polishing. On this body, this is 3 coats of Clear Red, One more to go, then the Varnish. Hope this helps Steve |
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Post by gardnerpag44 on Apr 26, 2014 20:21:05 GMT -7
Great tips thanks smileyCA9464IN_zpsd9ee499f
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Post by Gothicz House Of Kustomz on Jul 10, 2014 9:41:51 GMT -7
heres a pretty cheap and kewl tip, now if ya got a sweaty who like thos votive candle smell good candles, well once there done, jus scoop out whats left of the candle, usually pulls out nice and clean, great to use if yer like me and do massive body work, for mixing 2 part bondo, acrylic nail filler, 5 min epoxy, can even be cut up to scratch small parts, like brackets, curled to make hose clamps, only yer mind can stop ya, stuff like that, once used up, just tosse'em out,    |
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Post by Deleted on Jul 19, 2014 21:47:18 GMT -7
Here's a tip I figured out about 25 years when I was really building A LOT in the late 80s/early 90s... I figured out how to make my own styrene fill material. I cut up left over sprews into little tiny pieces, put them into an empty Testors thinner bottle (the little one), then just dump Testors Model Glue (the red tube ...mmmm that smell brings back so many memories  ) anyway and you put the lid on it and let it sit... after a few days go back and stir it up.. add more glue if necessary. When it's ready it will have a gooey putty-like consitancy.. Smear it on with your favorite utensil and let it dry. It basically dries like glue and all thats left is the styrene in the shape you made it. I like to use it when I mold hood scoops on hoods around the edges of the scoop to form it into 1 solid piece..etc.. Thanks for the tips!. I'm really interested in the first tip about the filler. How small do you cut up the styrene? Does the glue not dry up in the jar after a few hours? If it's gooey in the jar, how does it eventually harden up wherever you use it? Thanks in advance. |
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Post by jbailey on Jul 19, 2014 22:04:57 GMT -7
Ice, you can cut the chunks of sprue in about 1/4" chunks and fill a square bottom testors paint jar, then fill it with the liquid styrene cement and put the lid on the paint jar. After a couple days it will turn to a bottle of liquidfied styrene and will stay that way for some time as long as its not left open for long periods of time.
It dries when the solvents evaporate, basically like when glueing parts together.
I don't remember if I saw this in Scale Auto Mag or on their forum, but it was 10-15 years ago and is a helpful tip.
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Post by Deleted on Jul 19, 2014 22:09:08 GMT -7
Nice. Thanks. I'm going to definitely try it. I've been using Tamiya putty and a new green one I just bought. Can't remember the name. Squadron, maybe.
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Post by Gothicz House Of Kustomz on Jul 19, 2014 23:02:31 GMT -7
The process I use, is Ambroid pro wield, but I take the longer way, I sand the plastic to a powder, then mix in a small jar, and use a metal putty knife I got from a grooming kit, for fingernails,or the brush, the pro wield, welds the plastic, yeah WIELDS, the 2 pieces together, I dunno how I would never get along without the stuff, see back in my time I would use a soldering iron, yep I can reshape plastic to anything I want, even wield plastic with a soldering iron, have fun, still a good tip.
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Post by CoyoteCrunch on Jul 21, 2014 8:00:48 GMT -7
I could see the soldering gun thing working, BUT I gots no such tool, Lol
But for sure I am gonna try that tip with the 1/4" chunks and a tube of model cement. Not sure I understand how the glue would not just harden up, but hey, I only have like 30 tubes of cement - so it is worth a shot. The Testors tubes of putty, well can I vent a little? I HATE THAT STUFF!!!! |
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Post by Gothicz House Of Kustomz on Jul 21, 2014 8:36:12 GMT -7
Here, hear, on the puddy, stuff does suck, I use melted sprue, welding, acrylic nail filler, and sometime 3M putty, or 2 part auto bondo, just depends on what is right at my hand at the time, ya can also use super glue and baking powder, (Armour all?) OHHHHH DOH! arm and hammer,
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) anyway and you put the lid on it and let it sit... after a few days go back and stir it up.. add more glue if necessary. When it's ready it will have a gooey putty-like consitancy.. Smear it on with your favorite utensil and let it dry. It basically dries like glue and all thats left is the styrene in the shape you made it. I like to use it when I mold hood scoops on hoods around the edges of the scoop to form it into 1 solid piece..etc..
