Post by Deleted on Nov 25, 2013 6:56:45 GMT -7
We need a place titled "Tips & Tricks" to give us all an opportunity to share good things and not just mistakes to avoid! For instance, being a drag racing fan, I've spent at least a couple hours taping off 1/16" segments around the edge of the slick and shaving it off with an xacto and sanding to get that nice, fat sidewall. The 1st try was near perfect, the next car ate up 2 sets of slicks before I got the same effect. Then I discovered the Pegasus brand. I was originally looking for Pegasus rear drag wheels, but they dried up as they were handmade from China. However, for $5.00 on Ebay I found the slicks from the same set and they were EXACTLY what I'd been working on crafting! They're without a doubt the best I've found so far; extra soft rubber, rounded sidewalls and they take to water decals easily.
For beginner builders starting to get into fuel systems, the Pro Tech website, as well as several others have entire cars and single engines in both 1/25 and 1/16 style which demonstrate not only different ways to formulate system appearance and function, but links to where you can find how-to's on mating up braided wire and different aluminum fittings for very realistic results. You'll soon by trial and error what works for you and builders like Custom Muscle here can help you out just by examining their finished build pics. Builders here are very close knit and will share techniques and sources to make your build as complicated or simple as possible.
When I first started with braided fuel line, it was all I wanted. Now, by looking at other models, I see that .025 fuel line (rubber covered copper core) is flexible, formable and works well with CA (aka super glue for models) for blower injector lines. Same with .031 aluminum, both for 1/25 scale engines. Fuel distribution blocks, where a fuel line or lines from the cell enters the engine compartment (Pro Tech makes them; they look kinda like resin legos) can be made by hand using Evergreen stock that you can custom cut to your size and number of required lines. Once you CA the big fuel line (I'll be using .045 heater hose) to the fuel block, you can make the block as big as you'd like so all 4 lines to your carbs can fit on one distribution block.
I think that's all I have to bore you with right now. CM, Beast, Skip, whomever, please add your advice and tips as you see fit so we can all learn - ESPECIALLY PAINTING!!!
For beginner builders starting to get into fuel systems, the Pro Tech website, as well as several others have entire cars and single engines in both 1/25 and 1/16 style which demonstrate not only different ways to formulate system appearance and function, but links to where you can find how-to's on mating up braided wire and different aluminum fittings for very realistic results. You'll soon by trial and error what works for you and builders like Custom Muscle here can help you out just by examining their finished build pics. Builders here are very close knit and will share techniques and sources to make your build as complicated or simple as possible.
When I first started with braided fuel line, it was all I wanted. Now, by looking at other models, I see that .025 fuel line (rubber covered copper core) is flexible, formable and works well with CA (aka super glue for models) for blower injector lines. Same with .031 aluminum, both for 1/25 scale engines. Fuel distribution blocks, where a fuel line or lines from the cell enters the engine compartment (Pro Tech makes them; they look kinda like resin legos) can be made by hand using Evergreen stock that you can custom cut to your size and number of required lines. Once you CA the big fuel line (I'll be using .045 heater hose) to the fuel block, you can make the block as big as you'd like so all 4 lines to your carbs can fit on one distribution block.
I think that's all I have to bore you with right now. CM, Beast, Skip, whomever, please add your advice and tips as you see fit so we can all learn - ESPECIALLY PAINTING!!!
