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Post by jkflash on Jan 13, 2023 15:52:34 GMT -7
It's Friday, you know what that means! Time to head on over to Mel's for another cruise in! This week let's bring out anything you got that is powered by a Ford Flathead v8! My dad bought a 1937 Ford slant back last year and he wants to do a motor swap. I am BEGGING him to let me build the flathead just to say I did. I don't know why I want that engine, it just sound like fun. This week Mel is making grilled tenderloin sandwiches. These tenderloins are so huge they have to put your fries on a separate plate! See you there!
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Post by sharp on Jan 13, 2023 16:32:37 GMT -7
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nyratrod
Senior Member
Registered: Oct 29, 2014 10:05:30 GMT -7
Posts: 508
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Post by nyratrod on Jan 13, 2023 18:12:13 GMT -7
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Post by hard2handle on Jan 13, 2023 18:48:44 GMT -7
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pete
Super Member
Registered: Jun 29, 2021 13:48:10 GMT -7
Posts: 409
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Post by pete on Jan 13, 2023 19:09:40 GMT -7
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Post by midnightprowler on Jan 14, 2023 16:47:17 GMT -7
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mrmike
Full Member
Registered: Apr 8, 2022 12:03:58 GMT -7
Free wheeling independent
Posts: 247
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Post by mrmike on Jan 15, 2023 7:57:33 GMT -7
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41chevy
Senior Member
Registered: Jul 1, 2021 9:46:43 GMT -7
Posts: 705
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Post by 41chevy on Jan 17, 2023 10:13:14 GMT -7
If you get to rebuild the 21 stud flattie, before investing in parts, I would suggest you have the block dye checked for cracks. They are notorious for cracks in between the valve seat areas, between the cylinders and in the cylinder bores them selves. Also if it has the original factory heads they should be aluminum, have then checked for cracks and warping.
From 1938 on Ford put sleeves in all the flatheads from the factory to stop the cylinder bore cracks and went to 24 head studs. But they still got cracks on the decks and valve seat areas.
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