Deleted
Registered: May 19, 2024 2:13:45 GMT -7
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Jan 13, 2016 18:59:40 GMT -7
So I'm finally gonna get a thread started for a new build. This one is gonna be pretty slow out of the gate. I still have the 08 Charger to finish, and a 70 Camaro I'm working on. But I did pull the box out and started to sand off the emblems and the door locks. The last couple builds i didnt do this, and since i cant paint for crap, I find that Im doing a lot of sanding and they always get in the way. I have decals for them anyway if i want them back, but i doubt they will make it. I think im gonna look at doing another two tone like this. should be interesting. I just hope the paint cooperates with me. The last two cars i've built i've had to strip multiple times. From pics i've seen of other builds, it looks like this kit is just a regular firebird kit with different wheels and decals. Its not lowered like it is in the pictures, so that will be quite a challenge for me. Other then that, It should pretty much be a stock build, nothing too special. Here are some pics of the body getting started. I sanded the emblems off the front, back, and the trunk lid, as well as the door locks. I threw on some black enamel to use a a guide coat, I wish i would have used a gray, but i didnt have any. I plan on priming the car white so i can get the blue to pop. Not sure if it will matter. I also still need to work on sanding the scratches out in some areas.
|
|
Deleted
Registered: May 19, 2024 2:13:45 GMT -7
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Jan 14, 2016 0:46:14 GMT -7
I have this kit to do, and it does look good on the box, pity the only thing they do is throw in some bigger wheels. You say you have problems with painting, what paint do you use? I noticed you threw some black enamel over it, is ALL you paint enamel? I like the paint scheme you have chosen too mate. I will be watching.
|
|
Deleted
Registered: May 19, 2024 2:13:45 GMT -7
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Jan 14, 2016 5:31:34 GMT -7
I just used the black as a guide coat for the emblems I sanded off. To make sure it got sanded flat. The black lines that are still there mean I have low spots that need work. Nearly all of my painting knowledge comes from full size cars. Mainly just watching tv shows and such. I think my problem with painting is the complete lack of experience and impatience. I always seem to have a learning curve with every color I try.
The red charger I did, I used some red auto spray from the auto store and it came out decent. I couldn't get the orange peel out of the car without sanding through the paint, I did do a clear and tried sanding that as well but again, even with thicker coats I couldn't get it the way I wanted. Don't get me wrong, the sanding was a very visual improvement over what was there. So it's gradually getting better
The orange camaro was a different story. I wanted a bright orange car with white stripes. Non of the auto stores sold an orange paint, so I went to the auto paint supply store across the street and had them mix me up a color. It was an acrylic lacquer which he also reduced for me. I wanted to use it with the airbrush, but even after getting the airbrush part figured out, the paint would just lay on there too thick. I eventually just got tired of screwing with it, so I stripped it again and decided to use the tamiya orange that wasn't as bright as I wanted. I have to admit their paint does lay down really nice. I just put my last coat on there last night. Assuming I don't sand through the paint before it gets stripes. That's going to be another huge challenge for me.
|
|
Deleted
Registered: May 19, 2024 2:13:45 GMT -7
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Jan 14, 2016 17:15:03 GMT -7
Good luck mate, perseverance is the key, all i ever use is auto acrylics, and never had a problem, if you ever need any tips, or have any questions mate, feel free to drop a PM mate, i am more than happy to help people out where i can, we all learnt from someone.
|
|
Deleted
Registered: May 19, 2024 2:13:45 GMT -7
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Jan 14, 2016 17:25:51 GMT -7
Good luck mate, perseverance is the key, all i ever use is auto acrylics, and never had a problem, if you ever need any tips, or have any questions mate, feel free to drop a PM mate, i am more than happy to help people out where i can, we all learnt from someone. I am defenetly gonna take you up on that offer some time. Most of what I learned has been online, but you dont really get the finer details when your reading that stuff. On another note, I did end up throwing some primer on the firebird today, but it looks like im gonna need to do some more sanding. Apparently I used too coarse of a sanding stick when i shaved the emblem off. I guess it was too much to handle for the 1800 grit i ended with. Lets hope I dont burn through too much of the body line in the front, it already looks a little weak.
|
|
Deleted
Registered: May 19, 2024 2:13:45 GMT -7
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Jan 14, 2016 17:49:50 GMT -7
1800 grit should not be a problem, but you will find the emblem will blead through the first coat of primer mate, lightly block that bit again, and re-primer it. Sometimes it takes a couple of attempts to get rid of emblems and mould seams, due to the softer plastic they use now days.
|
|
Deleted
Registered: May 19, 2024 2:13:45 GMT -7
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Jan 18, 2016 18:28:28 GMT -7
1800 grit should not be a problem, but you will find the emblem will blead through the first coat of primer mate, lightly block that bit again, and re-primer it. Sometimes it takes a couple of attempts to get rid of emblems and mould seams, due to the softer plastic they use now days. Ill have to try that next time, I didnt see this post until after I tried sanding it again. I ordered a batch of sandpaper from 800 to 7000 from ebay. I may look into getting some of those square sanding pads in the lower grits. I get kind of impatient when sanding, I think with this advice i should do better, we shall see. I need to figure out how to sand body lines better, I feel that when i took off the emblems that I took some of the sharpness of the body lines with it. I also decided to try scribing the doors and trim. My dentist was nice enough to donate a nice set of picks for me to use as long as I promised not to try and use them on my teeth lol. Im having a problem staying in the groove though, and it ends up scarring the panel im working on. To be completely honest I read about scribing from somewhere, but I really dont know what im doing. It seemed like a good idea at the time. You guys have been a great help, Im learning a lot! I really appreciate it! Feel free to criticize my work or methods, Im always looking to improve! Someday I might be able to build something on your level.
|
|
|
Post by jbailey on Jan 18, 2016 20:07:27 GMT -7
Well, I wouldn't say I'm a pro builder by any means lol. When you scribe panel lines, be sure to go slow and let the tool do the work. Trying to take off a bunch off material at once will usually cause the tool to hop out of the line.
|
|
Deleted
Registered: May 19, 2024 2:13:45 GMT -7
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Jan 19, 2016 0:15:16 GMT -7
Jbailey has hit the nail on the head mate, SLOWLY does it. But i would not be scribing lines really, until you NEED to. ( think i have done it twice in 30+ years). Work on one thing at a time is my best suggestion mate, when sanding emblems etc on the body, slow and steady is the key, also you can put some tape over the body lines so you don't rub on the edges. Work on your paint technique first, that is what you see first when it's on the shelf, then move on to all the other stuff bit by bit. Keep at it, you will end up with a nice result.
|
|
Deleted
Registered: May 19, 2024 2:13:45 GMT -7
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Jan 19, 2016 6:55:12 GMT -7
I was trying to go slow, but the pick itself was popping, it took me a while to figure out the best way to use the pics, some of the picks have beveled edges or they work better one direction but not the other..
When is the best time to do the scribing? Before, after primer? After a little paint? What reason am I looking for to do this? Is there anything that probably wouldn't be a good idea to do?
I am finding that the emblems and such are having a hard time going away, I will try to just sand the primer out and reapply until it doesn't show.
thanks again!
|
|
Deleted
Registered: May 19, 2024 2:13:45 GMT -7
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Jan 19, 2016 8:07:52 GMT -7
Jesse and Dale pretty much have it. On plastic kits, scribing is never really needed u less you've added putty for custom work and you end up cover existing lines. And even then, it's just really cleaning them out. Resin bodies are what sometime require scribing because the lines end up very faint.
Dentist picks are nice to have but if I must scribe. I use the back of my blades. A dull broken one for that matter. I feel like I have more control because the blade is really close to my hand. The picks extend out a bit more and I tend to lose control because of it.
For the emblems, patience is needed. Take Dales tip about the tap to prevent sanding off areas you don't want to sand off. I think it's on it's way to a good build. Don't rush it.
|
|
|
Post by jbailey on Jan 19, 2016 8:42:08 GMT -7
I think some people scribe panel lines so they don't have to black wash them or whatever to make them appear more realistic like the 1:1's. I like to use the tip of a razor saw, basically just one tooth.
As for the "ghosting" of the sanded off badges, styrene is a rather porus material and soaks up the solvents from paint and primer. I've seen people say that once you sand them off apply some bondene or tenax 7 or similar styrene adhesive, which will make the emblems or what have you "stand" up again and can be sanded more one the glue dries.
|
|