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Post by Big D on Nov 9, 2014 14:33:07 GMT -7
I like injectors and I have bought about every aftermarket injector on the market only to find I didn't like them much after they arrived. I like Parts by Parks injectors the best, that's what is on my Anglia build, but they are so expensive. I wanted to flare my own tubing but there is no flaring tool that small. I tried every method I could think of and nothing worked. I found the answer quite by accident and it was so simple I almost cried. I was surfing one day and came on a medical site where the technician was trying to mate plastic tubing to metal tubing and he had to clean out the metal tubing before he could get it to work and when he did it he said "and it flared too". Got my attention in a hurry. Here is what he did. He took a pair of tweezers like the ones in the picture, inserted them into the tubing and pushed down and twisted at the same time, you have to keep turning the tweezers until you get the amount of flare you want. That's it! Cleaned and shined the inside of the tubing and flared it at the same time. You have to use a certain type of tweezers and the best place to get them and other inexpensive modeling type tools is here www.widgetsupply.com/ The center pipes on my "Wild thing" build in the pic here are tubing I flared this way. Works on 1/8 to 1/16 tubing. I hope this helps somebody.
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Deleted
Registered: May 18, 2024 7:28:46 GMT -7
Posts: 0
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Post by Deleted on Nov 9, 2014 15:12:58 GMT -7
Most aftermarket parts do get expensive when we start going all out on our builds. This is an inexpensive method to get a great look. Plus the subtle flare makes it look more to scale. Any chance it working on 1/24 scale tubing?
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Post by Big D on Nov 9, 2014 15:21:50 GMT -7
When you say 1/24 are you referring to plastic tubing like comes in a kit? That's 3/32 tubing on Wild thing. Aluminum. Most kit tubing is 1/16 or 3/32. I have used 1/8 on Ross Gibson engines and it didn/t look out of place. But those engines say they are 1/24 but IMO they are slightly bigger. I don't think it would work on kit tubing but I never tried it I just figured the plastic would crack or shatter. I will try it though. Don't know if you don't try.
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Post by Big D on Nov 9, 2014 16:07:14 GMT -7
I guess what I'm trying to say Iceman is I thought I was in scale. I measure the kit tubing with dial calipers and then try to match with alum. or brass or solder. Sometimes if I think the kit stuff is too small I will use larger tubing but I try to stay in scale. I have to confess sometimes I don't care if it is in scale I just want it to look good.
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Deleted
Registered: May 18, 2024 7:28:46 GMT -7
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Post by Deleted on Nov 9, 2014 16:21:41 GMT -7
My bad. After reading it again I understand what you mean by 1/8 to 1/16 tubing. I thought that was the scale of the build you were referring to. It all makes sense now. Lol duh!
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Post by Big D on Nov 9, 2014 16:24:47 GMT -7
Glad you cleared that up. You really threw me a curve there.
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Post by Skip-O-Matic on Nov 9, 2014 22:34:12 GMT -7
Sweet tip Dennis. I'm gonna have to play around trying that out. Thanks.
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Deleted
Registered: May 18, 2024 7:28:46 GMT -7
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Post by Deleted on Nov 9, 2014 22:54:28 GMT -7
I make my own "dies" and use the same tubing Dennis, BUT, I hold my tubing in my lathe, and then hold the tapered die, in my tail stock chuck, and then with the lathe "head stock" locked I then slowly force the tail stock chuck with die, into the tubing, that protrudes out of the head stock just the distance I want the taper, and voila....Easy peasy to do 8 10 16, whatever, BUT thats when I have to remember not everyone has a metal lathe to do such things over and over.....
Ever do those in polished brass Dennis? HMMMMMM Now theres an idea for those gold plated gems you done like on the Bath Tub Buggy!
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